Kawasaki Motorcycle Zo (—— 7 Owner’s Manual ye By i KX125 KX250 KX500Whenever you see the symbols shown below, heed ‘their instructions! Always follow safe operating and, ‘maintenance practices. AWARNING ‘This warning symbol identifies special instructions or procedures which, if not correctly followed, could fesult in personal injury, oF loss of life. CAUTION ‘This caution symbol identifies special instructions or procedures which, if not strictly observed, could result in damage to or destruction of equipment. NOTE This note symbol indicates points of particular interest for more efficient and convenient operation. AAWARNING THIS VEHICLE IS A COMPETITION MODEL ONLY AND WAS NOT MANUFACTURED FOR, NOR SHOULD IT BE USED ON, PUBLIC STREETS, ROADS, OR HIGHWAYS. THE USE OF THIS VEHICLE SHOULD BE LIMITED TO PARTICIPATION IN SANCTIONED COMPETI- TION EVENTS UPON A CLOSED COURSE. ‘THIS VEHICLE SHOULD NOT BE USED FOR GENERAL OFF-ROAD RECREATIONAL RIDING. DISCLAIMER OF WARRANTY ‘THIS MOTORCYCLE IS SOLD AS 1S, WITH ALL FAULTS, OBVIOUS OR CONCEALED AND THERE ARE NO WARRANTIES EXPRESSED OR IMPLIED, INCLUDING WARRANTIES OF MERCHANTABILITY OF FITNESS. ‘The purchaser accepts all responsibilities con- cerning quality, performance, cost of service and/or necessary repairs. IMPORTANT Off-road motorcycle riding is a wonderful sport, and we hope you will enjoy it to the fullest. However, if improperly conducted, the sport has the potential to cause environmental problems as well as conflicts with other people. Responsible use of your off-road motorcycle will ensure that these problems and. conflicts do not occur. TO PROTECT THE FUTURE OF YOUR SPORT, MAKE SURE YOU USE YOUR BIKE LEGALLY, SHOW CONCERN FOR THE ENVIRONMENT, AND. RESPECT THE RIGHTS OF OTHER PEOPLE.Foreword Congratulations for choosing this KAWASAKI Motorcycle, which has been developed through Kawasaki engineering to produce a light weight, high performance machine with superb handling and stability for racing and sporting use. Your new KX is a highly tuned production racer for participation in racing events. As with any mechanical device, proper care and maintenance are important for trouble-free operation and top performance. This guide is written to enable you to keep your KX properly tuned and adjusted. Due to improvements in design and performance during production, in some cases there may be minor discrepancies between the actual vehicle and the illustrations and text in this manual, © Kawasaki Heavy Industries, Ltd, 1992 June 1992 (1) (NM)nnn TABLE OF CONTENTS «» Specifications... eee ceneee 4 Drive Chain . wo General information a Handlebar 3 Location of Parts. 0 Brakes 0 SideStand soon 4 Steering 53 Air Cleaner Rotary Shutter -. sss. eessss 49 Front Fork ee Fuel. 4 Rear Suspension (Uni-Trak). Be Starting the Ensine ie Wheels. vo 67 Shitting Gears. DI 46 Bolt and Nut Tightening ls 90 Stopping the Motoreyele. 2s... css. 47 Torque Table LIND ga Stopping the EngINe. esses 17 Gteaning .... 02. : 74 Bredkin nae Lubrication... o.oo soiesteesesss 98 Daily Pree Inspection... 19 Troubleshooting ” After Race Check Points fae 20 Tuning . Gauweet ie rast Mointenance and Adjustment 2 Carburetor Tuning. mane Be Periodic Maintenance Chart. 21 Suspension Tuning... 20 Transmission oil « 23 Gearing... PIII 98 Cooling System. 24 Special Cre According Spatk Plug... 30 to Track Conditions 96 lonition Timing n Optional Parts 7 Air Cleaner. ...sssccseceeveeseeeee 34 Race Preparation. . 88 Tote Cable = 37 100 Carburetor 38 tor Clute Taba: Gaaaidia GaN 2. Exhaust System otKXx125: Dimensions ‘Overall length Overall width Overall height Wheelbase Road clearance Dry weight Fuel tank capacity Engine Type Bore and stroke Displacement Compression ratio Port timing: Intake Open Close Scavenging Open Close Exhaust Open Close Carburetor Lubrication system Starting system Ignition system lanition timing Spark plug Transmission “Transmission type Clutch type Driving system 4 Hasna SPECIFIGATONS * 2160 mm (85.04 in} 815 mm (32.09 in} 1215 mm (47.83 in) 1470 mm (57.87 in} 395 mm (15.55 in} 86.5 kg (191 Ib) 8.5 L (2.25 US gal) 2-stroke, single cylinder, crankcase reed valve, liquid-cooled 54.0 x 54.5 mm (2.13 x 2.15 in) 124 mb (7.60 cu in} Low speed; 9.1: 1 High speed; 8.1: 1 Full open 65.5° BBDC 65.5° ABDC (Low speed) 86.0° BBDC, (High speed) 95.0° BBDC (Low speed) 86.0° ABDC, (High speed) 95.0° ABDC KEIMIN PWK36 Petrol mix (32 : 1) Primary kick CDI system 14.5% BTDC @ 11000 r/min (rpm) NGK R6254K-105 @ © © NGK R6252K-105 Gspeed, constant mesh, return shift Wet, multi dise Chain driveGeer ratio: ast 2.142 (30/14) ang L714 (array 3rd 1.400 (28/20), 4th 1.181 (26/22) 5th 1,041 (25/24) 6th 0.920 (23/25) Primary reduction ratio 3.500 (56/16) Final reduction ratio 4.083 (49/12) Overall drive ratio 13.148 (Top gear) Transmission oil Capacity 700ml. (0.74 US atl . Type SE class SAE 10W30 or 10Wa0 ‘Type Tubular, semi-double cradle Steering angle 45° to either side Castor 25.59 Trail 105 mm (4.13 in} Tiresize: Front 80/100-21 51M, DUNLOP K490 © DUNLOP D752 Rear 100/90-19 57M, DUNLOP K695 © DUNLOP D752 ‘Suspension: Front Telescopic fork {up side down) Rear ‘Swing arm (Uni-trak) Front suspension stroke 310 mm (12.20 in} Rear wheel travel 330 mm (12.99 in} Front fork oll (each) KAYABA 01 or SAE 5W20, 521 — 529 ml (17.62 — 17.89 US 02) Front fork oil evel (compressed, spring removed) 90 mm (3.84 in) Brakes Type Front and Rear Dise brake Effective dise diameter: Front 220 mm (8.66 in) ® ! Australian modet Rear 190 mm (7.48 in} © : Canadian model Specifications subject to change without notice, and may not apply to every country. © : Europesn mode!Kx260: Dimensions Overall length (Ove-all wetth Overall height Wheelbase Road clearance Dry weight Fuel tank capacity Engine Type Bore and stroke Displacement Compression ratio Porttiming: Intake Scavenging Exhaust Carburetor Lubrication system Starting system Ignition system lanition timing Spark plug Open Close Open Close Open Close 2185 mm (86.02 in} 815 mm (32.09 in) 1215 mm (47.83 in) 1480 mm (58.66 in) 385 mm (15.16 in} 96.6 kg (213 Ib) 8.5 L 12.25 US gall 2 stroke, single cylinder, piston reed valve, liquid-cooled “This engine licensed under one or more of Eyvind Boyesen's Patent Nos: 3 905 340. 3 905 341. Re. 30.425. 4 062 331; 4 161 163, 4 202 298 und 4 202 299."" 66.4 x 72.0 mm (2.61 x 2.85 in} 249 mL (15.25 cu in} Low speed; 10.2: 1 High speed; 8.7: 1 Full open 60.0° BBDC 60.0° ABDC (Low speed) 80.5° BBDC, (High speed) 92.5° BBDC (Low speed) 90.5 ABDC, (High speed) 92.59 ABDC KEIHIN PWK38 Petrol mix (32 : 1) Primary kick CDI system 14° BTDC @6000 r/min (rpm) NGK R6254E-9 @) © © NGK R6262E-9Transmission Tronamission type Clutch type Driving system Gear ratio: ast 2nd 3rd 4th 5th Primary reduction ratio Final reduction ratio Overall drive ratio Transmission oil Capacity Type Frame ‘Type ‘Stesring angle Castor Teall Tire size: Front Rear Suspension: Front Rear Front suspension stroke Rear whee! travel Front fork cil (each) Front fork ol level (compressed, spring removed) Brakes ‘S-speed, constant mesh, return shitt Wet, multi dise Chain drive 2.138 (32/15) 1.687 (27/16) 1.388 (25/18) 1.136 (25/22) 1,000 (24/24) 2.750 (55/20) 3.500 (49/14) 9.625 (Top gear) 850ml (0.90 US at) SE class SAE 10W30 or 10W40 Tubular, semi-double cradle 45° to either side 26° 108 mm (4.25 in) 80/100-21 51M, DUNLOP K490 © DUNLOP D752 110/90-19 62M, DUNLOP K695 © DUNLOP D752 Telescopic fork (up side dawn) ‘Swing arm (Uni-trak} 310 mm (12.20 in) 330 mm (12.99 in) KAYABA 01 or SAE SW20, 521 — 529 mL (17.62 — 17.89 US 02) 90 mm (3.54 in) “Type Front and Rear Dise brake Effective disc diameter: Front 220 mm (8.66 in) @® : Australian mode! Rear 190 mm (7.48 in) © : Canadian model Specifications subject to change without notice, and may not apply to every country, © : European model 7&Xx500: Dimensions ‘Overall length Overall width Overall height Wheelbase Road clearance Dry weight Fuel tank capacity Engine Type Bore and stroke Displacement Compression ratio Port timing: Intake Seavenging Exhaust Carburetor Lubrication system Starting system, Ignition system Ignition timing Spark plug Transmission ‘Transmission type Clutch type 8 Open Close Open Close Open Close 2190 mm (86.22 in) {815 mm (32.09 in) 1.205 mm (47.44 in) 1.490 mm (58.66 in) 370 mm (14.57 in} 100 kg (220 1b) 9.9L (2.62 US gal) 2-stroke, single cylinder, piston reed valve, liquid-cooled “This tengine licensed under one or more of Eyvind Boyesen's Patent Nos:3 905 340. 3.905 347. Re. 30.425. 4 062 331;4 161 163. 4 202 298 and 4 202 299." 86.0 x 86.0 mm (3.99 x 3.39 in} 499 mL. (30.45 cu in} Low speed; 8.3: 1, High speed; 7.4 :1 Full open 60° BBD 60° ABDC (Low speed} 83.5° BBDC, (High speed) 93.5° BBDC (Low speed) 83.5° ABDC, (High speed) 93.5° ABDC. KEIHIN PWK39 Petrol mix (32:1) Primary kick CDI system 19° BTDC @6 000 r/min (rpm) NGK B8EG @ ©® NGK BREEG S:spoed, constant mesh, return shift Wet, multi diseDriving system Gear ratio: 1st 2nd 3rd ath 5th Primary reduetion ratio Final reduction ratio, Overall drive ratio, Transmission oil Capacity Type Frame ‘Type Staring angle Castor Tall Tire size: Front Rear ‘Suspension: Front Rear Front Suspension stroke (compressed, spring removed) Chain drive 2.000 (32/16) 1.444 (26/18) 1.181 (26/22) 0.954 (21/22) 0.791 (19/24) 2.538 (66/26) 3.367 (47/14) 6.746 (Top gear) 800 mL. (0.85 US qt) SE class SAE 10130 or 101440 Tubular, semi-double cradle 45° to either side a 116 mm (4.57 in) 80/100-21 51M, DUNLOP K4g0, ® 0752 120/90-19 66M, DUNLOP K695, © 0752 Telescopic fork (up side down) ‘Swing arm (Uni-trak) 310 mm (12.20 in) 330 mm (12.99 in) KAYABA 01 or SAE 5W20, 506 ~ 514 mL (17.11 — 17.39 US 02) 80 mm (3.15 in) © 90 mm (3.54 in) Brakes Type Front and Rear Disc brake Effective dise diameter: Front 220 mm (8.66 in) ® : Australian model Rear 190 mm (7.48 in) © : Canadian mode! Specifications subject to change without notice, and may not apply to every country. © = European modelLocation of Parts kx125, 250: 1 2 3 4. 5. 6 GENERAL INFORMATION ~~ Kx500: Clutch Lever Engine Stop Button Fuel Tank Cap Front Brake Reservoir Front Brake Lever Throttle Gripvoc: vxsco: 209 @® T] i D } / 4 7. Front Fork 8, Radiator 9. Fuel Tank 10. Fuel Tap 11, Carburetor 12. Air Cleaner Rotary Shutter (KX500 only) 13, Seat 14, Brake Dise 18. Brake Caliper 16. Shift Pedal 17. Rear Shock Absorber 18. Swing Arm 19. Drive Chain 20. Chain GuideOH QaOee 21. Silencer 22. Gas Reservoir 23, Rear Brake Reservoir 24, Uni-trak Tie Red and Rocker Arm 25. Kick Pedal 26. Rear Brake Pedal 27. Transmission Oil Level Gauge 28, MufflerSide Stand Position the side stand through the gusset portion at ‘the left side of the frame pipe with the longer bar facing inside and parallel with the connection frame pipe. A. Side Stand B. Longer Bar . Connection Frame Pipe NOTE ‘09 not start the engine or ride the motorcycle when the side stand is used. Air Cleaner Rotary Shutter (KX500 only) A rotary shutter is equipped to the left and right sides of the air cleaner case respectively. When the shutter is opened, extra air is led to the air cleaner case, so more efficient intake is obtained. NOTE The rotary shutter should be closed in the wet condi- tion to prevent rain trom entering. A. Rotary Shutter 13Fuel ‘The Kawasaki KX has a 2stroke engine that requires a gasolineoil mixture. Fuel Tank Capacity 8.5 L (2.25 US gal) 9.9 L (2.62 US gal) KX125, 250 x50 To open the fuel tank cap, pull out the breather hose from the hole of the number plate, and turn the tank cap counterclockwise, ‘A.Fuel Tank Cap B, Breather Hore Recommended Fu Use premium gasoline with an octane rating equal to ‘or higher than that shown in the table. 4 isin sas Rang Wd i krack BONZHON [gg [Research Octane No. (RON) 96 NOTE Mf “knocking” or “pinging” occurs, try a different ‘brand of gasoline or higher octane grade. Gasoline is extremely flammable and ean be explosive under certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot ight. Engine Oil Mixing il must be mixed with the gasoline to lubricate the piston, cylinder, crankshaft, bearings, and connecting rod bearings. Recommended Oil: kawasaki 2-stroke racing oil Shell Super-M oCastrol A747 oCastrol TTS (A545) Rock Oil K2NOTE lf none of the recommended oils are available, use 2stroke racing oil only. Gasoline and engine oil mixing ratio: ‘32:1 (Gasoline 32, Engine Oil 1) (A 3210 1 mixture is 4 fluid ounces of oil per gallon of| gasoline or about 31 mL. of oil per liter of gasoline.) CAUTION Do not mix vegetable and mineral based oils. Too much oil will cause excessive smoking and spark plug fouling. Too litte oil wil cause engine damage or premature wear. To make an gasoline-oil mixture, pour oil and half of the gasoline into a container first and stir the mixture thoroughly. Then add the rest of the gasoline and stir the mixture well. NOTE At low temperature, of! will not easily mix with gaso- line. Take time to ensure a wel-blended mixture, OThe lubricative quality of this mixture deteriorates ‘apicly; use a fresh mixture for each day of operation, Starting the Engine urn the fuel tap to ON. KX125, 250: Kxs00: A. Fuel Tap B. ON position if the engine is cold, pull up the choke knob.‘*Kick the engine over, leaving the throttle closed, A. Kick Pedal ‘Even alter the engine starts, Keep the choke knob pulled up. When the engine is thoroughly warmed up, ‘push down the choke knob. NOTE When the engine is already warm or on hot days, open the throttle part way instead of using the choke knob, Off the engine is flooded, kick with the throttle fully ‘open ueuil the engine starts. Mf the clutch lever is pulled, the motorcycle can be started while in any gear, 16 19 Gears ‘The transmission is @ Sspeed (KX125: Gspeed), return shift type with neutral halfway between 1st and 2nd gears. A “return shift’ means that to go back to ist gear from a higher gear, you must shift back through the gears one by one. The same is true when Lupshifting: each gear must be engaged before the next higher gear may be selected. To engage first gear from neutral, pull in the clutch lever and push down on the shift pedal, gently release the clutch lever, then release the shift pedal, To shift to the next higher gear; pull in the clutch lever, lft the shift pedal with your toe, gently release the clutch lever, and then release the shift pedal. To shift to the next lower gear; disengage the clutch, push the shift pedal down as far as it will go, engage the clutch gently, and then release the shift pedal CAUTION When changing gears, press firmly on the shift pedal to ensure complete, positive shifting. Careless, incomplete shifts can cause the transmission to jump out of gear and lead to engine damage.Stopping the Motorcycle For maximum deceleration, close the throttle and apply both front and rear brakes. Disengage the clutch 1s the motoreycle comes to a stop. Independent use of the front or rear brake may be advantageous under certain conditions. Downshift progressively as speed is reduced to ensure good engine response when you want to accelerate, Stopping the Engine ‘Shift the transmission into neutral ‘After racing the engine slightly, close the throttle ‘completely and push the engine stop button, ‘A. Engine Stop Button ‘©Turn the fuel tap to the OFF (Stop) position. v7 |Breakin To obtain the proper operating clearances in the engine and transmission that are necessary for smooth ‘engine performance and reliability, @ brief break-in procedure must be carried out. For the first hour or 20 km (12 mi) of operation, run the engine at law and ‘moderate r/min (rpm), NOTE OThe slow riding necessary during the break-in period ‘may cause carbon to build up on the spark plug and fou! it. If inspection of the spark plug shows this to be the case, replace the standard spark plug with a hotter spark plug for the duration of the break-in period. ‘Spark Plug, ‘Standard Plug Hotter Plog NGK R6254K-105 [NGK R6254E.9 kx128 |@O® @O8 NGK R6252K-105 |NGK R6252E-9 NGK R6254E-9 Kx250 | AOD — NGK R6252E-9 NGK B8EG NGK B7EG Kx500 ®BO® G08 NGK BREEG —_|NGK BR7EG @: Australian mode! ©: Canadian modet 18 ‘uropean model break-in according to following steps, Start the engine and let it run at idle until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Stop and let the engine cool completely, Start the engine and ride for 10 minutes at moder ate speed — NEVER HARD ACCELERATION. - Stop and let the engine cool completely. Be sure to ‘check and adjust chain slack and spoke tightness and make a general inspection, 9. Start the engine and ride for 20 minutes at moder- ate speed ~ NEVER HARD ACCELERATION. . Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and adjust as step 4. Then drain the coolant, remove the cylinder head, cylinder and piston, and inspect these parts. Piston: A piston scored at the piston skirt could lower engine per formance or damage the eylinder wall. Such scores, if any, must bbe smoothed with #400 to #600 emery cloth Cylinder: Decatbon the exhaust ports and the upper part of the cylinder, taking care not to damage the cylinder wall. Scores on the cylinder wall should be smoothed with #400 to #600 emery cloth. Cylinder Head: Remove the carbon inside the ‘combustion chamber.7. Install the parts removed, 8. Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck with coolant. Before putting the motoreycle into ‘operation, bleed the air from the cooling system. 9. Sart the engine and ride for 30 minutes at moder ate speed ~ NEVER HARD ACCELERATION. 10. Stop and let the engine cool completely. Check and ‘adjust as Step 4. 11, After the breakin procedure has been properly ‘zrried out, the motorcycle is ready for regular operation. However, since recklessly high r/min (rpm) will lead to engine trouble, take care to use the necessary skill and technique in operating the motorcycle: NOTE After break-in, install a new standard spark plug, and change the transmission oil. For your reference: To keep optimum engine performance, replace the piston rings with new ones after breakin, Daily Pre-ride Inspection Check the following items each day before you ride. ‘The time required is minimal, and habitual performance of these checks will help ensure you a safe, reliable ride If any irregularities are found during these checks, refer to the appropriate owner's manual section and take the action required to return the motorcycle to a safe ‘operating condition. AWARNING Engine Transmission oil Transmission oil level correct. Coolant No coolant leakage, coolant level correct (when engine is cold) Radiator cap, Properly installed Spark plug + Tighten to correct torque. Cylinder head Tighten to correct torque, Cylinder Tighten to correct torque. Guten Clutch functioning properly Carburetor Adjusted properly. Air cleaner Clean, properly installed Muffler Muffler not damaged. Engine sprocket Not worn or damaged, 19Frame Tires Spokes Drive chain Brakes; ront and rear Throttle Steorine Front fork Rear shock absorber. Fuel tank. Rear sprocket Engine stop button Nuts, bots, fasteners 20 Check overall condition; wear, cuts and other damage. Check pressure. Check for any loose spokes. Check overall condition and chain slack, oil ag necessary, Function properly, brake lever and. pedal have correct play, Functions properly, returns smoothly. «Action is smooth but not loose from lack to lack. No binding of control cables Functions properly, no oil leakage. Function properly, no. oil leakage. = Mounted securely, no fuet leakage Not worn or damaged. Functions properly. Tighten any loose bolts and puts. After Race Check Points After racing, first clean the motorcycle (Pg. 74), then inspect the entire motorcycle with special attention to the air cleaner, carburetor, brakes, etc Carry out general lubrication (Pg. 75) and make adjust: ments as necessary.MAINTENANCE AND ADJUSTMENT ssenienennnenininenninne The maintenance and adjustments outlined in this chapter are easily carried out and must be done in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart to keep the motorcycle in good running condition. Periodic Maintenance Chart ~————~—___ FREQUENCY Each | Every|Every| Every | As | See OPERATION _ Face |3 races|5 races|10 races |required | Page Clutch-adjust ° 39 *Clutch and friction plates-check F °F = Throttle cable-adjust . a Spark plug-clean, gap ° [RF 30 Air cleaner element-clean . 34 ‘Air cleaner element-replace Damaged 34 Carbi iinspect/adjust . 38 | ‘Transmission oil--change = 23 || *Piston and piston ring-clean/check [Rk = SI "Cylinder head, cylinder and exhaust : 7 2|___valves- inspect “| Muffler-clean/check + ° 40 Silencer packing--change le 40 "Small end bearing-check 7 ° i = Kick pedal and shift pedal-clean . = Exhaust pipe O ring replace . C 30 Engine sprocket-check + —_ ° 8 Coolant-check + ° R [25 Radiator hoses, connections-check ° 2 Brake adjustment-check + Te 4g [Brake wear--check + ~ 7 ae 2_ FREQUENCY Each | Every | Every} Every As See OPERATION ——— race |3 races|5 races| 10 races| required | Page Brake fluid levelcheck T_ ° 51 “Brake fluid--change Every 2 years _[= Brake master cylinder cup and dust Sees - Every 2 years = “Brake caliper piston seal and dust seal--replace Every 2 years = “Brake hose and pipe-replace Every 4 years = Spoke tightness and rim runout-check 7 67,68] Drive chain--adjust - a Drive chain--lubricate_ ° 46.76 co |_Diive chain wear-check } ° “a 3 |_Chain slipper and guide-replace | Damaged 45. & |" Front tork--inspect/clean Tet I I 85 & | “Front fork oil-change ‘st time after 2 races, then every 5 races | — OT Nats, bolts, fasteners-check | | 70 Fuel hose-replace Every 4 years = Fuel system-clean . = Steering play-check + . 53 Steering stem bearing-grease _ ° = Rear sprocket-check _ ° a6 General lubrication-perform ° 75 | =wieel bearing.-check + . = *Swing arm and U1 ik linkage pivots--check {| . = *Swing arm and Uni-trak linkage pivots--grease ° = *Rear shock oil-replace Tat time after 2 races, then every 6 races | — + : Replace, add, adjust or torque if necessary. * : Should be serviced by referring to the Service Manual. R : Replace 22‘Transmission Oil {In order for the transmission and clutch to function properly, maintain the transmission oil at the proper level, and change the oil periodically. Motorcycle opera- tion with insufficient, deteriorated, or contaminated transmission oil will cause accelerated wear and may result in transmission seizure. Oil Level ‘*Situate the motorcycle so that itis perpendicular to the ground. ‘elf the motorcycle has just been used, wait several ‘minutes for all the oil to settle. ‘eCheck the transmission oil level through the oil level ‘gauge in the lower right side of the engine. The oil level should come up between the upper and lower level ‘IF the oil level is too high, remove the excess oil using @ syringe or other suitable device ‘AIF the oil level is low, add the correct amount of oil through the oil filler opening. Use the same type and brand of oil that is already in the engine. ransmission Oil Grade: SE class Viscosity: SAE 10W30 or 10W40 motor oil Capacity: KX128 = 700 ml. (0.74 US qt) KX250_: 850 mL (0.90 US at) KX500_:_800 mL (0.85 US at) Oi! Change ‘The transmission oil should be changed periodically to ensure long engine life. ‘eWvarm up engine thoroughly so that the oil will pick up any sediment and drain easily. 23Stop the engine, and place an cil pan beneath the engine. ‘®Remove the drain plug and position the vehicle so that it is perpendicular to the ground to allow all the oil to drain out A. Drain Plug install the drain plug with its gasket, tightening it to 20 N-m (2.0 kg-m, 14.5 feb) of torque. ‘®Remove the oil filler opening plug, and pour in 850 mL {0.90 US qt) IKX125: 700 mL (0.74 US gt), KX500: 800 mt (0.85 US qt] of fresh transmission oil ‘@Check the oil level, after kicking the kick pedal 3 or 4 times. ‘Install the oil filler opening plug. 24 Cooling System Radiator Hoses Check the radiator hoses for cracks or deterioration, and connections for looseness in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart. Radiator Check the radiator fins for obstruction by insects or mud. Clean off any obstructions with a stream of low: pressure water. CAUTION Using high-pressure water, as from a car wash facility, ‘could damage the radiator fins and impair the radiator’s effectivenes Do not obstruct or deflect airflow through the radiator by installing unauthorized accessories in front of the radiator. Interference with the radiator airflow can lead to overheating and consequent engine damageCoolant Coolant absorbs excessive heat from the engine and transfers it to the air at the radiator. If the coolant level becomes low, the engine overheats and may suffer severe ‘damace. Check the coolant level each day before riding the motoreycie. Replenish coolant if the level is low. To avoid burns, do not remove the radiator cap or try +0 change the coolant when the engine is stil hot. Wait cools down. CAUTION Use of incorrect coolant solutions will cause sever ‘engine and cooling system damace. Use coolant containing corrosion inhibitors made specifically for aluminum engines and 1 accordance with the instructions of the manufacture PNAS SNe} Coolant chemicals are harmful to the human body. Follow coolant manufacturer warnings and coolant handling instructions. Coolant Information To protect the cooling system aluminum parts {engine and radiator) from rust and corrosion, the use of Corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals in the coolant is essential. If coolant containing corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals is not used, over a period of time, the cooling system accumulates rust and scale in the water jacket and radiator. This will clog coolant pas sages, and reduce the efficiency of the cooling system. Soft or distilled water must be used with the inhibitor chemicals and the antifreeze (see below for antifreeze) in the cooling system CAUTION If hard water is used in the system, it causes scale accumulation in the water passages, and considerably reduces the efficiency of the cooling system. 25If the lowest ambient temperature encountered falls below the freezing point of water, protect the cooling system against engine and radiator freezeup. Use @ permanant type of anti-freeze (soft water and ethylene alycot plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and radiators) in the cooling system. For the coolant mixture ratio under extreme conditions, choose the mixture ratio listed on the container for the lowest ambient temperature. CAUTION Permanent types of antifreeze on the market have anticorrosion and anti-ust properties. When it it diluted excessively, it loses its anti-treeze and anti- corrosion properties. ite a permanent type of antifreeze in accordance with the instructions of ‘manufacturer. NOTE ©A permanent type of antifreeze is installed in the cooling system when shipped. It is colored green, contains 2 50% solution of ethylene glycol, and has « freezing point of 35°C (31°F). 26 Coolant Level ‘Situate the motoreycle so that it is perpendicular to the ground. ‘*Remove the radiator cap in two steps. First turn the cap counterclockwise to the first stop and wait there for a few seconds. Then push and turn it further in the ‘same direction and remove the cap. A. Radiator Cap Check the coolant level in the radiator. The coolant level should be to the bottom of the radiator filler neck.NOTE Check the level when the engine is cold (room or ambient temperature). @ 1. Coolant Level Breather Hose if the coolant level is low, add the correct amount of ‘coolant through the filler opening. Recommended coolant: Permanent type of antifreeze (soft water and ethylene glycol plus corrosion and rust inhibitor chemicals for aluminum engines and radiators) Water and coolant mixture ratio: 1:1 (Water 50%, Coolant 50%) Total amount: Kx125 0.93 L (0.98 US qt) KX250 1.1L (1.2 US qd KX600 1.3L (1.4 US qv) Coolant Change The coolant should be changed periodically to ensure long engine life. ‘Wait the engine to cool completely. ‘situate the motorcycle so that itis perpendicular to the ‘round. ‘#Remove the radiator cap. ‘Place a container under the coolant drain plug, and drain the coolant from the radiator and engine by temoving the drain plug at the bottom of the water pump cover. Immediately wipe or wash out any ‘coolant that spills on the frame, engine, or wheel. ‘A. Water Pump Cover B. Drain PlugKx250: ‘@For KX250, place a container under the drain plug on the right side of the cylinder and drain the coolant by removing the drain plug. A.Water Pump Cover B. Drain Plug kx600: Pug (KX250) ‘®For KX500, place a container under the hose fitting on the right side of the cylinder and drain the coolant by removing the hose fitting. ‘A.Water Pump Cover B. Drain Plug 28AAWARNING ippery and can cause Visually inspect the old coolant. If whitish cotton-like wafts are observed, aluminum parts in the cooling system are corroded. If the coolant is brown, iron fr steel parts are rusting. In either case, flush the cooling system Check the cooling system for damage, loose joints, or leaks. For KX500, install the hose fitting. Install the water pump cover drain plug and cylinder drain plug (KX250) with the specified torques shown in the table. Always replace the gasket with a new one, if itis damaged, Drain Plug Tightening Torque Water Pump Cover Plug: 9 Nem (0.9 kg-m, 78 ini] Cylinder Drain Plug (KX250}; 22 N-m (2.2 kg-m, 16 ft-lb) ‘Fill the radiator up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck with coolant, and install the radiator cap. Check the cooling system for leaks. ‘eStart the engine, warm up the engine thoroughly, then stop the engine, ®Check the coolant level after the engine cools down, Add coolant up to the bottom of the radiator filler neck. 29Spark Plug ‘The standard spark plug is @ shown in the table. Spark plug should have a specified gap, and be tightened to 27 Nem (2.8 kgm, 20 ftb) of torque. Standard Spark Plug KX125 [ NGK R6254K-105 @ © ONGK R6252K-105| KX250 |NGK R6254E-9 @ © © NGK R6252E-9 X50 [NGK 88EG @ © © NGK BREEG @: Australian made! ©: European model ©: Canadian model Standard Spark Plug Gap NGK R6254K-105, 0.7 — 0.8 mm 6252K-105 (0.028 — 0.032 in) NGK R6254E: R6252¢-9 NGK R6254E-105, eo R6252E-105, Oe 0 i NGK B8EG, B7EG, BEG | (0-020 — 0.024 in} NGK BR8EG, BR7EG, BRIE Spark Plug Gap 1. Gap The spark plug should be take out periodically to check its gap and ceramic insulator. If the plugis oily or has carbon built up on it, clean it (preferably with 2 sandblaster) and then clean off any abrasive particles. ‘The plug may also be cleaned using a high flash-point solvent and a wire brush or other suitable tool. Measure the gap with a wire:type thickness gauge, and adjust the ‘gap, if incorrect, by bending the outer electrode. If the spark plua electrodes are corroded or damaged, or if insulator is cracked, replace the plug.To find out whether the right temperature plug is being used, pull it out and examine the ceramic insulator ‘around the center electrode. If the ceramic is light brown, the spark plug is correctly matched to engine Temperature, If the ceramic is burned white, the plug should be replaced with the next colder plug. If the ceramic is black, the plug should be replaced with the ‘ext hotter plug Replace Spark Plug Colder Plug Hotter Plog NGK R6254E-9 Kx125 _— BOO NGK R6252E.9 NGK R6254K-105) KX250, @O® = NGK R6252K-105) NGK B9EG. NGK B7EG KXx500, @O©®8 ®©® NGK BRIEG. NGK BR7EG. ©: European model NOTE Of the engine performance drops, replace the spark plug first to regain performance. Ignition Timing Because 2 capacitor discharge ignition (CDI) system is used on this motorcycle, the ignition timing should never require adjustment unless the magneto stator is incorrectly installed during engine reassembly. However, if there is any doubt as to the timing, inspect and adjust, ‘necessary, as follows: Ignition Timing Adjustment ‘@Remove the magneto cover. ‘@Check to see if the center mark of the three marks on ‘the magneto stator is aligned with the mark on the crankcase. A. Timing Mark (Crankcase) B. Timing Mark (Stator Plate) ©. Serew . Magneto Stator 31‘A. Timing Mark (Crankease) B. Timing Mark (Stator Piate) ‘A, Timing Mark (Crankease) B. Timing Mark (Stator Plato) 32 ©. Screw D. Magneto Stator C. Sorew . Magneto Stator ‘1 the marks are not aligned, loosen the magneto stator screws and turn the magneto stator. Tighten the screws securely install the magneto cover. KXx128, 260: ‘The ignition timing can be adjusted for different power bands to suit the rider's preference and ability. ‘@Remove the magneto cover, Loosen the stator screws. ‘@Adjust the timing by shifting the stator position within ‘the three lines, x1: ‘A. Timing Mark (Crankease)D. Screw B. Stator Plate E. Adjustable Range ©. Standard Timing MarkKx250: ‘A, Timing Mark (Crankease) —_D. Screw B. Stator Plate E. Adjustable Range . Standard Timing Mark NOTE For best engine performance, it is very important to adjust the ignition timing within the adjustable range just explained, Tighten the stator screws securely. Install the magneto cover. ‘Test ride the motorcycle and readjust the ignition timing if necessary. A. Crankshaft Rotation. Advance B, Stator Movement D. Retard Kx250: A. Crankshaft Rotation B. Stator Movement D. RatardAir Cleaner ‘A clogged air cleaner restricts the engine's air intake, increas ng fuel consumption, reducing engine power, and causing spark plug fouling. ENR Ne] A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust to enter the carburetor and stick the throttle open. This could ‘cause an accident. CAUTION ‘A clogged air cleaner may allow dirt and dust to enter the engine causing excessive wear and possi damage. Inspect the element, without fail, before and after ach racing or practice session, Clean it if necessary. Element Removal ‘@Remove the seat ‘@ Remove the wing bolt, and pull out the element. 34 'B, Seat Mounting Balt Kx125, 250: Kxs00: B. Wing BoltElement Cleaning ‘check inside the inlet track and carburetor for drt. If dirt is present, clean the intake tract and carburetor thoroughly. You may also need to replace the air leaner element and seal the air cleaner housing and inlet tact. ‘Stuff e eleen, lint-ree towel into the carburetor s0 no dirt is allowed to enter the carburetor. ‘*Wipe out the inside of the air cleaner housing with @ clean damp towel. ‘Toke the element off the frame. A. Element B, Frame CAUTION Do not twist or wring the element, torn or otherwise damaged. Clean the element ina bath of a high flash-point solvent using a soft bristle brush. Squeeze it dry in @ clean towel, Do not wring the element or blow it dry; the element can be damaged,‘area, and take ve anywhere near appliance with a 2 low flash-point explosion could tears, harden: itor itwill allow through into the ® stuck, possibly ‘*Apply grease to oll connections and screw hl i air cleaner housing and intake tract. ‘@Remove the towel from the carburetor. ‘install the element on the frame, and coat the lip of the element with a thick layer of all purpose grease to ‘assure a complete seal against the element base. Also, ‘eoat the base where the lip of the element fits, i he A. Grease. install the element in the machine, and make sure the sealing surface of the element is seated properly Install the seatThrottle Cable Inspect the throttle grip tor smooth operation in all steering positions. In accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart check and adjust the throttle cable, ‘8Check that the throttle grip has 2 — 3 mm (0.08 ~ 0.12 in) of play and turns smoothly. ‘if the play is incorrect, loosen the locknut on the upper end of the throttle cable, and turn the adjuster to obtain the correct amount of play. Tighten the lock: rut. KXx125, 250: A.Adjuster B.Locknut kxs00: A. Adjuster B. Locknut C.Throttle Grip D.2 — 3 mm (0.08 ~0.12 in) ©. Throttle Grip D.2—3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 in)‘AIF the free play cannot be sot by adjusting the upper Carburetor able adjuster, pull the rubber boot off of the carbu: Idling Adjustment retor top. Make the necessary free play adjustment at Idling adjustment is carried out using the air screw the lower cable adjuster, tighten the locknut, and end idle adjusting serew- reinstall the rubber boot. First turn in the air screw until it seats lightly, and back it out 1% turns, ‘eAftor thoroughly warming up the engine, loosen the locknut, turn the idle adjusting screw to obtain the desired idle speed. If no idle is preferred, turn out the screw until the engine stops. Tighten the locknut. A. Locknut B, Adjuster A. Idle Adjusting Screw C. Air Screw B. Locknut‘e0pen and close the throttle a few times to make sure the idle speed does not change. Headjust it necessary ‘With the engine idling, turn the handlebar to each side. Hf handlebar movement changes the idle speed, the throttie cable may be improperly adjusted or incor rectly routed, or it may be damaged. Be sure to correct ‘any oF these conditions before riding WARNING Operation with a damaged cable could result in an tunsafe riding condition, Clutch Proper clutch lever play between the clutch lever and the clutch lever holder is 2 — 3 mm (0.08 — 0.12 inl. Play increases with cable stretch and friction plate ‘wear, necessitating adjustment. When there is too much lever play, first try adjusting the cable at the clutch lever. @Slide the clutch lever dust cover out of place. ‘Loosen the knuried locknut, turn the adjuster to obtain the proper amount of lever play, and tighten the locknut. = i © A. Clutch Lever B. Knurled Locknut, ©. Adjuster D.2—3 mm (0.08 - 0.12 in) Slide back the clutch lever dust cover.1 the adjuster at the clutch lever has reached its limit, adjust the cable with the adjusting nut at the upper of the clutch cable. Loosen the knurled locknut at the clutch lever. @Turn the adjuster in all the way, then tighten the knurled locknust Loosen the locknut at the upper of the cable, and turn the adjusting nut so that clutch lever has 2 — 3 mm (0.08 ~ 0.12 in} of play. FT ‘eTighter the locknut ‘Slide tie dust cover back into place 40 Exhaust System The muffler and silencer reduce exhaust noise and ‘conduct the exhaust yases back away from the rider while keeping power loss to a minimum. If carbon built Lup inside the muffler, exhaust efficiency is reduced. This lowers engine power. If the muffler is badly damaged, dented, cracked or rusted, replace it with a new one. Replace the silencer ‘wool if the exhaust noise becomes too loud or the engine performance drops. Silencer Packing Change ‘¢Remove the right side cover. @Remove the silencer mounting bolts and pull the silencer off toward the rear KX125, 250: TTF A. SilencerA. Silencer 'B. Mounting Bolts ‘®Remove the inner pipe mounting bolts, and pull out the inner pipe. ‘®Pull off the old silencer packing, and install the new silencer packing. ‘Install the inner pipe into the silencer. ‘@lnstal the silencer and right side cover. Kx125, 250: kxs00: ‘A. Mounting Bolts B. Inner Pipe KX125, 250: Kxs00: ‘A Silencer Packing aDrive Chain, The drive chain must be checked, adjusted, and lubricated in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart for safety and to prevent excessive wear. If the chain becomes badly worn or maladjusted ~ either t00 loose oF too tight — the chain could jump off the sprockets or break. PINTS Ne} ks oF jumps off the sprockets could A chain that br snag on the engine sprocket or lock the tear wheel, severely damaging the motorcycle and causing 10 90 out of contro. Slack Inspection With the motoreyele on the sida stand, puch up the rive chain in the middle of the upper run to measure the chain play. The space between the chain and the swing arm at the rear of the chain slipper should be 50 — 60 mm [2.0 ~2.4 in}. Rotate the rear wheel to find the place where the chain is tightest (because it wears Uneventy). Adjust the drive chain if it has too much or 100 little stack, 42 ‘A. 50 — 60 mm (2.0 ~ 2.4 in} In addition to checking the slack, rotate the rear wheel to inspect the drive chain and sprockets for damaged rollers, loose pin and links, unevenly or ex cxssively worn teeth, and damaged teeth, If there is any irregularity, replace the drive chain and/or sprockets, Stack Adjustment ‘@Remove the cotter pin. @Loosen the rear axle nut and both chain adjueter locknuts. Turn both chain adjusting bolts evenly until the drive ‘chain has 50 — 56 mm (2.0 — 2.2 in} of space between the chain and the swing arm. To keep the chain and ‘wheel aligned, the notch on the left chain adjuster should align with the same swing arm mark that the ‘notch on the right chain adjuster aligns with,B. Adjusting Bott E, Notch ©: Locknut F. Cotter in Note ‘Whee! alignment can also be checked using the straight: ‘edge or string method. AWARNING Misalignment of the wheet will result in abnormal wear and may result in an unsa Tighten both chain adjuster locknuts. ‘eTighten the axle nut wo 98 Nem (10 kgm, 72 feb) of torque, ‘Rotate the wheel, measure the chain slack again at the tightest position, and readjust if necessary. Install a new cotter pin through the axle nut and axle, and spread its ends, AWARNING If the axle nut is not securely tightened or the cotter pin is not installed, an unsafe riding condition may result. NOTE fn wet and muddy conditions, mud sticks to the chain and sprockets resulting in an overly tight chain, and the chain may break. To prevent this, adjust the chain to 55 — 65 mm (2.2 — 26 in) of space between the chain and swing arm whenever necessary. Drive Chain, Chain Guide, Chain Stippe and Sprockets Wear Inspection When the chain has worn so much that is more than 2% longer than when new, itis no longer safe for use and should be replaced. Whenever the chain is replaced, inspect both the engine and rear sprockets, and replace them if necessary. Overworn sprockets will cause @ new chain to wear quickly 43Drive Chain Wear Since it is impractical to measure the entire length of the chain, determine the degree of wear by measuring 3 20ink length of the chain. Stretch the chain taut either by using the chain adjuster, or by hanging a 10 kg (20 1b) weight on the chain, Measure the length of 20 links on a straight part of the chain from the center of the Ist pin to the center of the 21st pin, If the length is greater than the service limit, the chain should be replacee. Drive Chain Length ‘Standard 317.5 mm(12.5 in} Service Limit 323 mm (12.7 in) NoTE ©The drive system was designed for use with a DAIDO D.LD 5200S 114 link chain (KX125 European model: LD 520DS-6 112 link chain, except European model: J.D 520D8-6 112 link chain). For maximum stretch resistance and safety, a genuine part must be used for replacement. ©To minimize any chance of the master link coming apart, the master link clip must be installed with the olosed end of the “U" points in the direction of chain rotation. RotationChain Guide Wear Chain Slipper Wear Visually inspect the drive chain guide. If the guide is Visually inspect the upper and lower chain slippers on worn excessively damaged, replace it, the swing arm. If the chain slipper is worn or damaged, replace it A. Chain Guide A. Chain Slipper B. Swing Arm 45Sprocket Wear Visually inspect the sprocket teeth. If they are worn ‘or damaged, replace the sprocket. NOTE ‘Sprocket wear is exaggerated for illustration. Sprocket Worn Tooth Worn Tooth [Engine Sprocket) [Rear Sprocket) Direction of rotation Lubrication Lubrication is necessary after riding through rain or in the mud, oF any time that the chain appears dry. A hheavy oil such as SAE9O is preferred to a lighter oil bbecause it will stay on the chain longer and provide better lubrication, ‘Apply oil to the side of the rollers so that it will penetrate to the rollers and bushings. Wipe off any excess oilHandlebar KXx125: ‘To keep the handleber properly secured in place, itis necessary to correctly install the handlebar clamps. Tighten the clamp bolts, front first and then the rear, to 25 Nem (25 kgm, 18 felb) of torque. If the hanclebar clamp is correctly installed, there will be no gap at the front and an even gap at the rear after A. Front KXx250, 500: To suit various riding positions, the handlebar posi- tion can be adjusted by handlebar holder turn front to Handlebar Position Adjustment ‘Remove the handlebar clamp and bolts, and take off the handlebar ‘sLoosen the handlebar holder nuts, turn about the handlebar holder, and tighten the nuts securely, aA.Handlebar Clamp C. Cut Side B. Bolts ‘©Put the handlebar on the handlebar holder. Tighten the clamp bolts, front first and then the rear, ‘@Mount the clamp so that the cut side on the clamp to 25 Nem (2.5 kgm, 18 felb) of torque. If the points toward the rear hhandlebar clamp is correctly installed, there will be no ep at the front and an even gap at the rear after tightening.Brakes Disc and disc pad wear is automatically compensated, for and has no effect on the brake lever or pedal action. ‘So there are no parts that require adjustment on the brakes except brake lever play, brake pedal position and pedal play. Front Brake Lever Play ‘Adjust the front brake lever to suit you. To adjust the brake lever play, loosen the locknut and turn the adjuster to either side. After adjustment, tighten the locknut securely. Then check the brake for good braking power and no brake drag A. Brake Lever B. Adjuster Rear Brake Pedal Position ‘When the brake pedal is in rest position, it should be —10 ~ 10. mm (—0.39 ~ 0.39 in} from the top of the footpeg. If itis not, adjust the pedal position. A ‘A. Rear Brake Pedal 8. Footpeg, ©. —10 ~ 10 mm (—0.39 ~ 0.39 in} ©To adjust the pedal position, loosen the locknut, turn the adjusting bolt, and then tighten the locknut securely.A. Locknut “B. Adjusting Bolt ‘*Agjust the brake pedal play. Roar Brake Pedal Play ‘The brake pedal has 10 ~ 20 mm (0.39 ~ 0.79 in} of play when the pedal is pushed down lightly by hand To adjust the pedal play, loosen the locknut and turn ‘the aduster on the rear master cylinder. After edjustment, tighten the locknut securely. E10 ~ 20mm C. Rear Brake Bedal (0.39 ~0.79 in) ‘*Check the brake for good braking power and no brake drag. ENN Led the brake lever or pedal feels mushy when it is applied, there might be air in the brake lines or the Since it is dangerous to brake may be defective ‘operate the motorevele under such conditions, have the brake checked immediately. Disc Brake Fluid In accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, inspect the brake fluid level in the reservoirs and change the brake fluid. The brake fluid should also be changed if it becomes contaminated with dirt or waterFluid Requirement Recommended fluid are given in the table. If none of the recommended brake fluids are available, use extra heavy-duty brake fluid only from a container marked 0.0.73 or 0.0.7.4. Recommended Disc Brake Fluid (0.0.7.3) ‘Atlas Extra Heavy Duty ‘Shell Super Heavy Duty Texaco Super Heavy Duty Wagner Lockheed Heavy Duty Castrol Girling Universal Castrol GT (LMA) Castrol Dise Brake Fluid (0.0.7.4) Castrol Giring Universal Castrol GT (LMA) Castrol Dise Brake Fluid Check Shock Premium Heavy Duty NOTE Brake fluid of D.0.7.4 is installed in the brake system when shipped. Fluid Level Inspection The front and rear reservoirs must be kept more than half full with brake fluid. If the amount of brake fluid is insufficient, add brake fluid, CAUTION Do not spill brake fluid onto any painted surface. Do not use fluid from a container that has been left ‘open or that has been unsealed for a long time. Check for fluid leakage around the fittings. Check for brake hose damage, WARNING Do not mix two brands of fluid. Change the brake fluid in the brake line completely if the brake fluid ‘must be refilled but the type and brand of the brake fluid already in the reservoirs are unidentified. ‘A. Front Reservoir 51KXx125, KX250: Kx500: A. Rear Reservoir 82 Brake Wear Inepection In accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart, inspect the brakes for wear. For each front and rear dise brake caliper, if the thickness of eithar pad is less than 1 ‘mm (0.04 in}, replace both pads in the caliper as a set. Pad replacement should be done by an authorized Kawasaki Dealer Pad Usable Range ® 1, ning Thicke ® 2.1mm (0,04 in.)Steering ‘The steering should always be kept adjusted so that the handlebar wil turn freely but not have excessive play. To check the steering adjustment, remove the front disc cover, using te jack (special tool) under the fram land place a stand raised off the ground, Push the hen dlebar lightly to either side: if it continues moving under its own momentum, the steering is not too tight. Squat ting in front of the motorcycle, grasp the lower ends of the front fork at the axle, and push and pull the bottom fend of the front fork back and forth; if play is felt, the steering is t0o loose. I the stooring needs adjusting: ‘For KX250, 500 models; remove the number plate. ‘Using the jack (special tool) under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle. ‘Place a stand or block under the engine to r front wheel off the ground. ‘eRemove the handled: ‘For KX125 model; loosen the front fork lower clamp bolts and steering stem head nut. e the ‘A. Stem Head Nut ‘For KX250, 500 models; loosen the front fork upper clamp bolts, and remove the steering head nut and washer, and take off the steering stem head. 53‘A.StemHead Nut. Upper Clamp Bolts B. Stem Head Turn the steering stem locknut with the stem nut wrench (special tool) to obtain the proper adjustment. ‘*For KX250, 500 models; install the stem head, ‘Tighten the steering stem head nut, and front fork up: per or lower clamp bolts to the specified torque. Tightenng Torque Stem Head Nut: KX128, 280: 78 Nem (8.0 kgm, 58 feb) X00: 44 Nem (4.5 kg-m, 33 ft-lb) Fork Clamp Bolts: Upper: 22 N-m (2.25 kg-m, 16.3 feb) Lower: 20 N-m (2.0 kg-m, 14.5 ft-lb) ‘eCheck the steering again, and readjust it if necessary. ‘install the parts removed, 54 A. Stem Locknut B. Stem Nut Wrench: 57001-1100Front Fork The front fork should always be adjusted tor the rider's weight and track conditions by using one or more Of the following methods. Basically, there are five adjustments you can make to the front fork. ‘Air prossure — Air pressure acts as a progressive spring and affects the entire range of fork travel. The air pressure in the fork increases as the fork heats up, so the fork action on your KX will et stiffer as the race progresses. Because of this, we don’t recommend Using air pressure for additional springing. Your KX. forks are designed to work without adding any air. Rebound damping adjustment — This adjustment affects how quickly the rebound. The fork rebound. damping adjuster has 16 clicks. The seated position (full clockwise until the adjuster stops) is full hard. From the point, 8 ~13elicks counterclockwise is the standard setting, and 16 clicks counterclockwise is full soft ‘#Corrpression damping adjustment — This adjustment affects how quickly the compresses. The fork com: pression damping adjuster has 16 clicks. The seat- €ed position (full clockwise unti the adjuster stops) is fullhard. From the point, 7 ~ 14 clicks counterclock- wise is the standard setting, and 16 clicks counter clockwise is full soft +40il level adjustment — The effects of higher or lower fork cil level are only felt during the final 100 mm (4 in) of fork travel. A higher oil level (more oil) will ‘make the fork rebound more quickly. A lower oil level (less oil) will make the fork rebound more slowly. ‘Fork springs — Optional springs are available that are softer and stlter than standard. ‘Fork clamp position — Steering qualities and greatly affected by the fork clamp position (the amount of the outer tube projecting above the steering stem head). When the fork tube height is smaller, the front end becomes lighter due to change in weight bias. Also, tend to understeer in turns and “‘wash out.” When the height is greater, the result are opposite. Air Pressure The standard air pressure in the front fork legs is atmospheric pressure. The air pressure in the fork legs increases as the fork heats up, so the fork action will get stiffer as the vehicle operation progresses Using the jack (special tool) under the frame, stabilize the motoreycle, ‘Place a stand or block under the engine so that the front wheel is raised off the ground. ‘®Femove the screws at the top of the front fork top bolts to let the air pressure equalize. Then replace them,A. Screw Rebound Damping Adjustment To adjust rebound damping, turn the adjuster on the front fork top bolts with the blade of a screwdriver Until you feel a click. Adjust the rebound damping to ‘uit your preference under special conditions. oto Soter Marder (Couniercockwise (lack) ‘Number of turns counterclockwise usable range-16 clicks A. Adjuster ‘Standard Rebound Damping Adjuster Setting (turn the adjuster counterclockwise) 4x125 [12 clicks x250 [12 clicks x600 | 8 clicks © 9 clicks ©: European model CAUTION A. Seated position with adjuster turned fully clockwise. 56 “The left and right fork tube must have the same shock damping.Compression Damping Adjustment ‘Clean the bottom of the outer tubes, ‘Remove the caps on the bottom of the outer tubes To adjust compression damping, turn the adjuster on the front fork cylinder valve with the blade of a screwdriver until you feel a click. Adjust the com pression damping to suit your preference under special conditions, ‘Compression Damping Adjustment Sotter Harder (Counterclockwise)(Clockwse) Number of turns counterclockwise usable range-16 clicks ‘A. Seated position with adjuster tured fully clockwise. Standard Compression Damping Adjuster Setting (turn the adjuster counterclockwise) KXx125 | 9 clicks Kx250 | 12 clicks | Kx500 | 7 clicks © 14 clicks ©: European model CAUTION ‘The left and right fork lags must have the same shock damping, ‘©Put the caps into the bottom of the outer tubes. 87Oil Level Adjustment ‘9Using the jack (special tool) under the frame, stabilize the motorcycle. ‘*Place 2 stand or block under the engine so that the front wheel is raised off the ground. ‘Remove the front fender and front dise cover. ‘*Unbol: the brake hose holder mounting bolts. ‘A. Brake Hose Holder C. Front Fork Protector B. Mounting Bolts ‘@Remore the front fork protectors, ‘@Memove the handlebar clamp bolts and take out the handlebar. ‘@Remove the top bolts from the top of the fork tubes, ‘®Siowly compress front fork fully while pushing up the inner tube lower end (touch a stepped portion of the inner tube to the outer tube dust cover lower end), and place a stand or other suitable support under the front wheel 58‘©Pull cown the fork spring and insert the spring holder (special tool) under the push rod rut ur piston holder KX125, 250; A. Spring ©. Spring Holder: B. Push Rod Nut 57001-1286 Kxs00: ©. Spring Holder: 57001-1286, A. Spring B. Piston Holder Holding the push rod nut with @ wrench, loosen and remove the top bolt trom the top of the push rod. ‘eRremove the fork spring guide, Take the spring holder (special tool) off and pull out the fork spring, ‘A, Top Bolt B. O-Ring ©. Spring Guide ‘© Remove the other fork spring. ‘ePut the oil level gauge (special tool) on the top of the {fork tube, and measure the distance from the top of the fork tube to the ol level 59‘Standard Oil Lavel: KX125, 250 | 80 mm (3.54 in) KXBCO 80 mm (3.15 in) European model: 90 mm (3.54 in) ‘Adjusteble Range: 70-120 mm (28 A. Oil Level Gau 57001-1290 ‘@Adjust the oil level as required within the adjustable range using the following oil, Recommended Oil: KAYABA 01 or SAE 5W20, ‘Screw in the push rod puller (special tool) onto the push rod, 60 C ) A. Push Rod B. Push Rod Puller: 57001-1289 ‘9Pull up the push rod slowly. ‘AL this time, the fork oil comes out of the push rod hole, let it overflow until it stops. ‘9Put the fork spring into the fork tube. ‘°Pull down the fork spring and insert the spring holder {special tool) under the push rod nut or piston holder.KX125, 250: ‘@Remove the push rod puller. ‘9? ut the fork spring guide on the fork spring. eo 4 nf reas amabiles OE na ea Top tok Bee oes vee cor Check the O-ring of the top bolt for damage. If necessary, replace them. ‘¢Holding the top bolt with a wrench, tighten the push od nut against the top bolt. Tighten the push rod nut to 28 Nem (2.85 ka-m, 20.6 ft-lb) of toraue. A. Spring . Spring Holde B. Piston Holder 57001-1286 61a ‘A, Top Bolt ©. Wrench B. Push Rod Nut ‘® Remove the spring holder. install the top bolt on the top of the fork tube and tighten it to 29 Nem (3.0 kgm, 22 ft-lb) of torque. ‘@Assomble the other fork tube. Install the parts removed. Fork Spring Different fork springs are available to achieve suitable front fork action in accordance with the ridet’s weight and track condition. ‘Harder springs make the fork stiffer, and rebound action quicker. ‘#Softer springs make the fork softer, and rebound acti slower. 62 Fork Clamp Position Adjustment Steering qualities are greatly affected by the fork clamp position (the amount of the outer tube projecting above the steering stem head). When the fork tube height is smaller, the front end becomes lighter due to ‘change in ‘Also, it tends to understeer in turns and" When the height is greater, the results are opposite. Be sure the front tire does't rub the fender when the fork tubes compress fully. Make this adjustment in 5 ‘mm (0.2 in) increments. CAUTION ‘The outer tubes, both right and left, should be adjustod evenly. A. Fork Tube HeightRear Suspension (Uni-Trak) ‘he rear suspension system of this motoroyele is Uni: trak. It consists of a rear shock absorber, swing arm, tie rodand rocker arm. In general the operating characteristics of the Uni tak ae similar to the front fork. But, in achieving jing characteristics a linkage system is farious riding conditions, the spring preload of the shock absorber can be adjusted or the spring can be replaced with an optional one. Also the damping force can be adjusted easily so changing oil viscosity is unnecessary, Shock Damping Adjustment: Rear Shock Absorbs Rebound Damping Adjustment To adjust shock rebound damping, turn the rebound: damping adjuster on the rear shock absorber lower end with the blade of a screwdriver until you feel a click A. Rebound Damping Adjuster 8. Mark If the damper setting feels too soft or too stif, adjust it in accordance with the following table. Rebound Damping Adjustment 6 t= @ Sottr, Haraer (Counterciockwise) (Clockwise) ‘Number of turns counterclockwise usable range-16 clicks ‘A. Seated position with adjuster turned fully clockwise. ‘Standard Rebound Damping Adjuster Setting (turn the adjuster counterclockwise) x125 | 12 clicks x250_| 10 clicks kx500 | 13 clicks © & clicks ©. European model 63Ge Reservoir Compression Damping Adjustment To adjust compression damping, turn the compres: sion damping adjuster on the gas reservoir with the blade Of a screwdriver until you feel a click {1 the damper setting feels too soft or too stiff, adjust it in accordance with the following table. Compression Damping Adjustment Softer Hovaer (Counterclockwise) (Clockwise) Number of turns counterclockwise usable range-16 clicks ‘A, Seated position with adjuster turned fully clockwise. Standard Compression Damping Adjuster Setting counterclockwise) KX125 [12 clicks KX260_|/12 clicks Kx500_| 9 clicks © 13 clicks ©: European model 64 A. Compression Damping Adjuster 8. Mark Spring Preload Adjustment: ‘¢Femove the seat, right and left side covers, Loosen the ar cleaner duct elamp serew. ‘Remove the silencer, ‘@Remove the rear frame with thKx126, 250: ‘Place a jack (special tool) under the frame so that the ‘ear wheel is raised off the ground. Using the hook wrenches {special tools), loosen the locknut and turn the adjusting nut as required Turning the adjusting nut down makes the spring preload stronger ko128, 250: A. Adjusting Nut B. Locknut C. Hook Wrenches: 57001-1101 ‘A. Rear Frame B. Air Cleaner Case 65N . Hook Wrenches: 57001-1101 A. Adjusting Nut B. Locenut ‘*For KX125; standard spring preload is 640 N (65.25 kg, 144 Ib). The adjusting nut changes the preload 68 N (6.75 kg, 14.9 Ib) turn, ‘*For KX250; standard spring preload is 737 N (75.2 kg, 166 It). The adjusting nut changes the preload 69 N (7.08 kg, 15.5 Ib) turn. ‘®For KX500; standard spring preload is 794 N (81.0 ka, 179 Ib) [European model: 816 N (83.2 ko, 183 Ib] The adjusting nut changes the preload 79 N (8.1 kg, 17.9 fb) (European model: 76 N (7.8 kg, 17.2 Ib)] 66 ‘9For KX125; the standard adjusting nut position from the ‘center of the upper mounting hole is 130.5 mm (5.14. in). The adjustable range is 118 — 141 mm (4.65 — 5.55 in). ‘°For KX250; the standard adjusting nut position from the center of the upper mounting hole is 132. mm (5.22 in). The adjustable range is 118 — 143 mm (4.65 — 5.63 in) ‘*For KX5O0; the standard adjusting nut position from the center of the upper mounting hole is 124 mm (4.88 in) [European model: 125 mm (4.92 in)] ‘The adjustable range is 109 — 130 mm (4.29 — 5.12 in) [European model: 103 — 132 mm (4.29 — 5.20 in)] C. Adjusting Nut ‘A. Adjusting Nut Position. B. LocknutTighten the locknut securely. ‘@Atter adjustment, move the spring up and down to ‘make sure that the spring is seated. ‘instal the parts removed. Rear Shock Absorber Spring Replacement In addition to the standard spring, hard and soft springs are available. If the standard spring is improper for your purpose, select a proper one according to the rider's weight or course conditions. ‘Using the harder spring: The spring rate is higher: the springs stiffer and rebounds more quickly. Using the softer spring: The spring rate is lower; the springs softer and rebounds more slowly. AWARNING Improper removal by spring from rear shock absorber body may cause the spring and/or associated parts to be ejected at high velocity. Always wear eye and face protection. Removal and installation of spring should bbe performed by an authorized Kawase Wheels Tires Tire pressure affects traction, handling, and tire life. ‘Adjust the tire pressure to suit track conditions and rider preference, but do not stray too far from the recom: mended pressure. NOTE OTire Pressure should be checked when the tires are cold before you ride. Track Condition loWnen the track is wet, muddy, sandy | 80 kPa (0.8 | or slippery reduce the tire pressure to |kg/em?, 11 psi) Tire Pressure increase the tre tread surface on the |p around increase the tre pressure to prevent Gamage or punctures, though the | 100 kPa (1.0 tires will skid more easily. kg/cm? 14 pid] Spokes and Rim The spokes on both wheels must all be tightened securely and evenly and not be allowed to loosen Unevenly tightened oF loose spokes will cause the rim to warp, hasten nipple and overall spoke fatigue, and) may result in spoke breakage. 67A. Spoke and Spark Plug Wrench Bead Protector ‘There jis a bead protector on the front and rear wheels. The bead protector prevents the tire and tube from slipping on the rim and damaging the vaive stem. Valve stem damage may cause the tube to leak, neces. sitating tube replacement. In order that the tire and tube remain fixed in position on the rim, inspect the bead protector betore riding and tighten it if necessary. Tighten the valve stem nut finger tight only. ‘A. Bead Protector Nut Rim Runout Set a dial gauge to the side of the rim, and rotate the wheel to measure axial runout, The difference between the highest and lowest dial readings is the amount of runout, ‘Set the dial gauge to the inner circumference of the Fim and rotate the wheel to measure radial runout. The difference between the highest and lowest dial readings is the amount of runout. ‘A certain amount of rim warp (runout) can be ‘corrected by recentering the rim, that is, loosening some spokes and tightening others to change the position of different parts of the rim. If the rim is badly bent, however, it should be replaced. NOTE oWeld area of the rim may show excessive runout. Dis- regard this when measuring runout.Rim Runout Radia! Runout Axial Runout Rim Runout Saad See Te 05 S| rte 08250) | 2 an 08 | {under 0.03 in) A. Radial RunoutBolt and Nut Tightening Every day before riding, check without fail the tightness of the bolts and nuts described here, Also, check to see ‘whether or not each cotter pin is in place and in good condition, Kx125, 250: x50: Bead Protector Nut Front Fork Clamp Bolts Handlebar Clamp Bolts Clutch Lever Mounting Bolt Cylinder Head Nuts Spark Plug Cylinder Nuts: Rear Frame Mounting Bolts, exogeens 70 . Air Cloaner Case Bolts ‘Seat Mounting Bolt Spokes Disc Plate Screws Brake Hose Clamp Bolts Front Axle Clamp Nuts 5. Fork Protector Mounting Bolts Caliper Mounting Bolts 17, 18, 19. 20, 21. 22. Fork Protector Guide Mounting Bolts Front Fender Mounting Bolts Radiator Mounting Bolts Engine Mounting Bolts and Nuts ‘Shift Pedal Bolt Chain Guide Botts Chain Adjuster Locknutkx125, 250: Kxs00: SPT Ine 24. Rear Axle Nut 28, Muffler Mounting Bolts and Nut 33. Rear Brake Pedal Bolt 28. Sienoer Mounting Bolts 29. Engine Bracket Bolts 34, Rocker Arm Mounting Bott 26. Rear Brake Reservoir Mounting 30. Steering Stem Head Nut 36. Pivot Shaft Nut Bolt or Screw 31. Brake Lever Mounting Bolt 36. Kick Pedal Bolt IKX125, 500) 27. Rear Shock Absorber Bolts 32. Tie Rod Mounting Bolt 37. Kick Pedal Nut (KX250) nTorque Table Tighten all bolts and nuts to the proper torque using an accurate torque wrench. A bolt or nut if insufficiently tightened may become damaged or fall out, possibly resulting in damage to the motorcycle and injury to the rider. A bolt or nut which is over-tightened may become damaged or break and then fall out. Nm kom feb 22 22 16 Cylinder Head Nuts 25 25 18 Cylinder Nuts: Kx125 25 25 18 KX250,500 mu 35 25 | Engine Drain Plug 20 20 145 | kick Pedal Bolt: Kx125 2 og 78 (intb) 2 Kxs00 25 25 18 | kick Pedal Nut (KX250), 49 50 36 Shift Pedal Bolt 10 1.0 87 (in-b) Spark Plug 2 28 20 Water Purp Cover Drain Plug 9 o9 78 (in-tb) Caliper Mounting Bolts 25 25 18 Dise Plate Mounting Screws 10 10 87 Cin-b) Engine Bracket Bolts: Frame side 26 27 20 Engine side 34 35 25 Engine Mounting Bolts 34 35 25 Front Axle 54 5.5 40 @ | Front Axle Clamp Nuts 9.3 0.95 83 (in-1b) @ | Front Brake Hose Holder Mounting Bolts 10 1.0 87 (in-b) 3 JFrom ror Clamp Bots z Upper: 22 225 163 Lower: 20 20 145 Front Fork Protector Guide Mounting Bolts 10 10 87 (in-ib) Front Fork Protector Mounting Bolt 10 10 87 (in-tb) Front Fork Top Bolts 29 3.0 22 Handlebar Clamp Bolts 25 25 18 Pivot Shaft Nut 98 10.0 72 Rear Axle Nut 98 10.0 2 Rear Brake Pedal Bolt 9 og 78 (intb) Rear Frame Mounting Bolts 26 27 20 [_| Rear Shock Absorber Bolts 39 40 29CHASSIS Part Name Nem kom feb Rear Sprockat Nuts 29 3.0 22 Spokes 1.5 0.15 13 {instb) Steering Stem Head Nut: KX125, 250 78 8.0 58 KXx600' 44 45 33 Steering Stem Locknut 4 04 36 (in-tb) Uni-trak Rocker Arm Bolt 81 83 60 Uni-trak Tie Rod Bolts 81 83 60 73Cleaning 1) Propatation for washing Before washing, precautions must be taken to keap water off the following places: Rear opening of the muffler. = + Cover with a plastic bag secured with rubber bands. Clutch and brake levers, hand grips, engine stop button Air cleaner intake Cover with plastic bags. Close up the opening with tape, or stuff in rags. 2) Where to be careful Avoid spraying water with any great force near the following places Dise brake master cylinders and calipers Under the fuel tank... If water gets into the ignition coll or into the spark plug cap, the spark will jump through the water and be ‘grounded out. When this hhappens, the motoreycle will not start and the affected parts must be wiped dry. Front and rear hubs Steering pivots (Steering stem head pipe) Uni-Trak system pivots Swing arm pivot 74 3) After washing Remove the plastic bags, and clean the air cleaner intake. ‘*Lubricate the points listed in the Lubrication Section ‘eStart the engine and run it for § minutes. Test the brakes before riding the motorcyde. AWARNING ‘Never wax or lubricate the brake dise. Loss of braking and an accident could result. Clean the dise with an oiless solvent such as trichoroethlene or acetone. Observe the solvent manufactuLubrication Lubricate the points shown here, with either motor cil or regular grease, in accordance with the Periodic Maintenance Chart or whenever the vehicle has been ‘operaced under wet or rainy conditions, and especially after using a high pressure spray washer. Before lubri- ‘ating each part, clean off any rusty spots with rust remover and wipe off any grease, oil, dirt, or grime, General Lubrication Apply motor oil to the following pivots: ocutch Lever Front Brake Lever ‘oRear Brake Pedal ‘oRear Brake Rod Joints Kick Pedal 5Use an aerosol cable lubricant with a pressure luber on all eabler: Clutch Inner Cable Throttle Inner Cable Cable Lubrication Apply grease to the following points Clutch Inner Cable Upper End Throttle Inner Cable Upper End Drive Chain Lubrication: Lubrication is also necessary after riding through rain ‘or on wet track, or any time that the chain appears dry. ‘A heavy oil such as SAE 90 is preferred to a lighter oll because it will stay on the chain longer and provide better lubrication. ‘Apply oll 10 the side of the rollers so that it will penetrate to the rollers and bushings. Wipe off anyNOTE This is not an exhaustive list, giving every possible cause for each problem listed. It is meant simply as a rough guide to assist the troubleshooting for some of the more common difficuties. Engine Doesn't Start; Starting Difficulty: Engine won't turn ove Cylinder, piston seizure Crankshaft seizure Connecting rod small end seizure Connecting rod big end seizure Transmission gear or bearing seizure Kick shaft return spring broken Kick ratchet gear not engaging "No fuel flow: No fuel in tank Fuel tap turned off Tank cap air vent obstructed Fuel tap clogged Fuel line clogged Float valve logged Engine flooded Float level too high Float valve wom or stuck open Starting technique faulty (when flooded, kick with the throttle fully open to allow more air to reach the engine.) TROUBLESHOOTING No spark: spark weak: Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted ‘Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble Spark plug cap not in good contact Spark plug incorrect Igniter trouble Ignition coil trouble Ignition coll resistor open Flywheel magneto damaged Wiring shorted or open Fuel/air mixture incorrect: Idle adjusting screw maladjusted Slow jet or air passage clogged Ar cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Starter jet clogged Compression Low: ‘Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad (wom, weak, broken, or sticking) Piston ring/land clearance excessive Cylinder head gasket damaged Cylinder head warped Cylinder base gasket damaged Reed valve damaged Cylinder nut loose 7Poor Running at Low Speed: ‘Spark weak: Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted ‘Spark plug cap or high tension wiring trouble ‘Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact Spark plug incorrect, Igniter trouble Ignition coil trouble Flywheel magneto damaged Fuel/sir mixture incorrect: Idle adjusting screw maladjusted ‘Slow jet or air passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing ‘Starter plunger stuck open Fleat level too high or too low Fuol tank air vent obstructed Carburetor holder loose Ai cleaner duct loose ‘Compression low: ‘Spark plug loose Cylinder head not sufficiently tightened down Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad (wom, weak, broken, or sticking) Piston ring/land clearance excessive Cyinder head gasket damaged Gyiinder head warped Cyinder base gasket damaged Reed valve damaged Cyinder nut loose 78 KIPS ports stuck open: KIPS exhaust valve stuck open (valve seizure, or carbon accumulation) KIPS oxhaust valves assembled incorrectly Exhaust advancer spring damaged Exhaust valve operating rod seizure Rood (for KIPS) seized in cylinder Other: Igniter trouble Transmission oil viscosity too high Brake dragging Poor Running or No Power at High Speed: Firing incorrect: Spark plug dirty, damaged, or maladjusted ‘Spark plug cap or high tension wiring damaged ‘Spark plug cap shorted or not in good contact ‘Spark plug incorrect loriter trouble Ignition coll trouble Flywheel magneto damagedFuol/air mixture incorrect: ‘Main jet clogged or wrong size Jet needle or needle jet worn Jet needle clip in wrong position Float level too high or too low Air jet or air passage clogged Air cleaner clogged, poorly sealed, or missing Starter plunger stuck open Fuel to carburetor insufficient Water or foreign matter in fuel Fuel to carburetor insufficient Water or foreign matter in fuel Fuel tank air vent obstructed Carburetor holder loose Air cleaner duct loose Fue! top clogged Fuel line clogged Compression low: ‘Spark plug loose Cynder head not sufficiently tightened down Cylinder, piston worn Piston ring bad (wom, weak, broken, or sticking) Piston ringiland clearance excessive Cyinder head gasket damaged Cyinder head warped Cyinder base gasket damaged Reed valve damaged Gyinder nut loose Engine rpm will not rise propery ‘Starter plunger stuck open Float level too high or too low Main jet clogged Throttle valve does not fully open Air cleaner clogged Mutfler clogged Water or foreign matter in fuel Cylinder exhaust port clogged Brake dragging Clutch sipping Overheating Transmission oil level too high Transmission oll viscosity too high Crankshaft bearing worn or damaged KIPS ports stuck closed: KIPS exhaust valves stuck closed (valve seizure, oF carbon accumulation) IPS exhaust valves assembled incorrectly KIPS ports clogged (carton accumulation) Exhaust valve operating rod seizure Rod (for KIPS) seized in eylinder Knocking: Carton built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quaity or incorrect ‘Spark plug incorrect Igniter troubleOverheating: iting incorrect: Spark plug dirty, broken, or maladjusted Spark plug incorrect, Igniter trouble Fuoliair mixture incorrect: Main jet clogged or wrong size Fuel level in carburetor float bowl too low Carburetor holder loose Air cleaner poorly sealed, or missing ‘Air cleaner duct poorly sealed Air cleaner clogged Compression high: Carbon built up in combustion chamber Engine load faulty: Brake dragging Clutch slipping Transmission oil level too high Transmission oil viscosity too high Lubrication inadequate: Transmission oll level too low Transmission oil poor quality or incorrect Coolant incorrect: Coolant level too low Coolant deteriorated Couling system component incorrect: Radiator clogged Radiator cap trouble Water pump not roating Clutch Operation Faulty: ‘Clutch stipping: ‘No clutch lever play Clutch cable maladjusted Clutch inner cable catching Friction plate worn or warped ‘Steel plate wor or warped Clutch spring broken or weak Clutch release mechanism trouble Clutch hub oF housing unevenly worn Clutch not disengaging propery: Clutch lever play excessive Clutch plate warped ar too rough Clutch spring tension uneven Transmission oil deteriorated “Transmission oll viscosity too high Transmission oil level too high Clutch housing frazen on drive shaft Clutch release mechanism trouble Gear Shifting Faulty: Doesn't go into gear; shift pedal does't return: Clutch not disengaging Shift fork bent or seized Gear stuck on the shaft Gear positioning lever binding Shift return spring weak or broken Shift retumn spring pin loose Shift mechanism arm spring broken Shift mechanism arm broken Shift drum brokenJumps out of gear: Shift fork worn Gear groove worn Gear dogs and/or dog holes worn Shift drum groove worn Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken Shift fork pin worn Drive shaft, output shaft, and/or gear splines wom Overshitts: Gear positioning lever spring weak or broken Shift mechanism arm spring broken Abnormal Engine Noise: Knockir lgniter trouble Carbon built up in combustion chamber Fuel poor quality or incorrect Spark plug incorrect Overheating Piston slap: Cylinder/piston clearance excessive Cylinder, piston worn Connecting rod bent Piston pin, piston pin holes worn Other noise: Connecting rod small end clearance excessive Connecting rod big end clearance excessive Piston ring wom, broken or stuck Piston seizure, damage Cylinder head gasket leaking Exhaust pipe leaking at cylinder head connection Crankshaft runout excessive Engine mounts loose Crankshaft bearing worn Primary gear worn or chipped Abnormal Drive Train Noise: ‘Clutch noise: ‘Clutch housingfriction plate clearance exccessive ‘Clutch housing geariprimary gear backlash excessive ‘Metal chip jammed in clutch housing gear teeth ‘Transmission noise: Crankcase bearing wor or damaged ‘Transmission gear worn or chipped ‘Metal chip jammed in gear teeth ‘Transmission oil insufficient or too thin Kick ratchet gear not properly disengaging from kick gear Output shaft idle gear wom or chipped Drive chain noise: rive chain adjusted improperly Chain worn Rear andlor engine sprockets) worn Chain lubrication insufficient Rear whee! misaligned 81Abnormal Frame Noise: Front fork noise: il insufficient or too thin Spring weak or broken Rear shock absorber noise: ‘Shock absorber damaged Disc brake noise: Pad installed incorrectly Pad surface glazed Disc warped Caliper trouble Cylinder damaged Other noise Bracket, nut, bolt, etc. not properly mounted or tightened Excessive white smok Throttle cable maladjusted Brownish smoke: ‘Ar cleaner clogged Main jet too large or fallen out Starter plunger stuck open Float level too high 82 Handling and/or Stability Unsatisfactory: Handlebar hard to tuen: Control cable routing incorrect Wiring routing incorrect Steering stem locknut too tight Roller bearing damaged Bearing race dented or worn ‘Steering stem lubrication inadequate Steering stem bent Tite air pressure too low Handlebar shakes or excessivery vibrates: Tre worn ‘Swing arm sleeve or needle bearing damaged Rim warped, or not balances Front, rear axle runout excessive Whee! bearing worn Handlebar clamp loose Steering stem head nut loose Handlebar pulls to one side: Frame bent ‘Wheel misalignment ‘Swing arm bent or twisted ‘Swing arm pivot shaft runout excessive ‘Stwering maladjusted ‘Steering stem bent Front fork leg bent Rightfleft front fork oil level unevenShock absorption unsatisfactory: (Too hava) Front fork oil excessive Front fork oil viscosity too high Front fork leg bent Tire air pressure too high Rear shock absorber maladjusted [Too soft) Front fork oil insufficient and/or leaking Front fork oil viscosity too low Front fork, rear shock absorber spring weak Rear shock absorber gas leaking Rear shock absorber maladjusted Brakes Don’t Hol Air in the brake line Pad or dise worn, Brake fluid leak Disc warped Contaminated pads Brake fluid deteriorated Primary or secondary cup damaged Master cylinder scratched inside Brake maladjusiment (lever or pedal play excessive) 83Carburetor Tuning Tuning a carburetor is not the mysterious science many racers believe it to be. One needs only to establish 2 basic knowledge of the identification and function Of carb components as well as how they work together 10 do the job well ‘Change due to temperature (at constant atmospheric pressure and humidity) Check the condition of the spark plug, make sure the ignition timing is correct, service the air cleaner element, decarbonize the muffler If your machine has run properly at a certain track in ‘the past and then starts running poorly with the same ‘carb settings, the problem is almost certain to be elsewhere; changing the carb settings in such a case ‘would probably be a waste of time. Cendition | Mixture will be | Setting change Cold air lean rich Warm air ich lean Dey air Tean rich Low Altitude Standard High Altitude tabove 1500 m |" a! If your bike is too rich, it will: ‘*Accelerate poorly ‘Misfire at low engine speeds ‘esmoke excessively ‘°Foul spark plugs Have a “deep” exhaust noise The main jot should be increased or decreased one to five sizes and tested until the engine gives maximum power. Symptoms of improper settings IF your machine exhibits one or more of the sym ptoms Isted below, it may need carb turning changes. Before attempting any changes, however, make sure that everything ese is in good shape and tuned properly 84 I your bike is too lean, it will ‘Ping oF rattle ‘Accelerate erratically (Act like it’s running out of fuel Fun extremely hot ‘e1f your bike pings or rattles, make cure the gasoline you are using is fresh and of a sufficient octane rating. You might also ty different brands of high-octane gasoline.Making setting changes Carb setting changes are made by changing or ad- justing four carburetor components Four components, the jet needle, main jet and slow jet, regulate the flow of fuel; air screw regulate the flow of air. The following chart indicates the working range of each component. Note how the working ranges overlap each other as the throttle valve moves from closed to fully open. Working Range of Each Carburetor Component Jet Needle (Straight Section) sir Seow Siow Jet ve ve v4 Fu Open roe . ‘. uf = axe 3, (Wh u If you note 2 particular symptom of rich or lean running in a specific range, use the chart to determine which component needs changing. Use the following information to decide what changed to make. Main Jet ‘The main jet has its greatest effect in the Ys-to-full: throttle range, The number of the main jet, stamped on the bottom or side of the jet, indicates the relative size of the hole in the jet which meters fuel. The larger the umber on the main jet is, the bigger the hole and the more fuel it will pass; hence, larger numbers mean richer jetting. Smaller numbers, of course, mean leaner jetting, Make main jet changes one step at a time. CNG! Gasoline is extremely flammable and can be explosive lunder certain conditions. Always stop the engine and do not smoke. Make sure the area is well ventilated and free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light, 85Jor Needle The jet needle and jet needle hole together have their greatest effect in the %to-%-throttle range. The needle moves in and out of the jet needle hole; since the needle is tapered, its position in the jet determines the amount Of fuel allowed through. There are five grooves in the top of the needle in which a circip fits. This clip locates the needle in the throttle valve and, therefore, deter- ‘mines its position relative to the jet needle hole. Moving the clip down has the effect of pulling the needle further out of the jet; the mixture is thereby Fichened. Moving the clip up leans the mixture. Change the clip position one step at a time. ‘The straight section of the jet needle affects throttle response at smaller throttle openings. Clip Position 4 Leaner 2 = 4 Richer zs Jet Needle Number Straight Section Slow Jet and Air Screw “The slow jet and air screw controls the mixture in the closed-to-A-throttle range, but has little effect on Up to full throttle, To adjust the mixture in this range, the air screw can be turned to change the air flow through the circuit, or the slow jet can be changed to provide more or less fuel. Start by turning the screw. Screwing it in richens the mixture. Air screw specs indicate the turns out from a lightly seated Position. Make changes in 4 turn increments. if turning the screw between one and two-and-a-half turns's doesn’t provide the desired results. The slow jet hhas a number stamped on it which indicates its size: the larger the number is, the richer the jet. Make one-step changes in the slow jet, and fine-tune with the air sorew. A. Slow JetTest Runs ‘eWarm up the engine with the carburetor at the standard settings, and run two or three laps of the course while examining the operating condition of the spark plug ‘Test-ide the bike by varying the throttle opening, Condition of spark plug Gowrect | Insulator is dry and light tan color. Too lean | Insulator is whitish Toorich | Insulator is wet and sooty. "if spark plug is whitish, the fuel-air mixture is too lean, (¢Replace the main jet with one step larger If spark plug is wet, the fuel-air mixture is too rich ‘Replace the main jet with one step smaller. @Set the carburetor so that the engine delivers sats: factory power at any throttle opening ‘If the air-fuel mixture is too lean, the engine tends to ‘overheat and may seize up; on the other hand, if itis too rich, the spark plug easily gets wet, thus causing rmisfires. The proper strength of the mixture varies depending on atmospheric conditions (pressure, hu: midity, and temperature), ‘Taking these conditions into ‘consideration, adjust the carburetor settings properly. Correction Factors: (For changes in altitude and temperature) NOTE ©For the following recommendations to be accurate, You must use the standard settings as a baseline. Also, don’t change any of the settings until you've deter: ‘mined what changes are necessary. All specifications are based on the use of the specified fuel and oil 37Temperature °C (°F) 40 ro) 30 (@6) 20 (8) 10 (50) 0 (32) Altitude =19 + + + + + (4 | 086 088 090 092 084 096 098 1.00 102 1.04 106 Correction Factor _ ‘Jet Needle/Air Serew Chart a _ Correction factors [ 1.06 orabove | 1.06-1.02 | 102-098 | 098-094 | 0.94orbelow reed sett Lower clip Raise dip ‘erneedie sting | one position Some ‘one position 7 ¥ (One turn out Air sorew opening fone turn in Yuen in Same Ye turn out aeStandard Settings 1. Find your correction factor to adjust the carburetor, kext25: EXAMPLE: 1000 meters (3200 {1) altitude with an air temperature of 35°C (95°F), The correction asietuer esl ie factor is 0.94 (gee dotted line for the exemple). Slow jet 82 siwihe fi 2. Using your earwain ator, let the core sow Jet needle clip position 2 etendindin Ft Mase ia EXAMPLE: For a correction factor of 0.94, multiply the jet size by that number. KXx260: Siow jet: (KX125) #52 x 0.94 = #49 ‘Airscrew opening Wh (KX250) #80 x 0.94 = #47 hottie valve cutaway 70 {KX500) #60 x 0.94 = #50 Slow jet 50 Main ot: (KX125) #160 x 0.94 = #150 Jet needle Noze (KX250) #162x 0.94 = #152 ‘at needle clip position 3 Wecooha ies eee = Tee Main jet 162 3. Find your correction factor on the Jet Needle/Air Screwr chart and change the jet needle clip position X80: and air screw opening as indicated. Aircrew openita 1 EXAMPLE: For correction factor of 0.94, raise the Thiottle valve cutaway 70 needle clip one position and tuin out the air screw Siow jet 60 one extra tur, det neece tee det needle clip setting: 31d groove from top minus 1 dot neecle clip postion 3 — 2nd groove Mainjet 168 Coir sorew opening: 1/8 + 1 turn = 2'fe tums outSuspension Tuning Introduction No area of machine adjustment is more critical than proper suspension tuning, An improperly tuned suspen sion will keep even the best rider from attaining the full benefit of his machine's ability. Match the sus ppension to the rider and the course conditions, WHILE TUNING THE SUSPENSION, KEEP THE FOLLOWING IMPORTANT POINTS IN MIND: ‘*If the machine is new, break-in the suspension with at least one hour of riding before making any setting evaluations oF changes, ©The three major factors which must be considered in suspension tuning ae RIDER WEIGHT, RIDER ABILITY, and TRACK CONDITIONS. Additional influences include the RIDER'S STYLE and POS! TIONING on the machine. ‘*1F you have a problem, test by changing your riding Posture or position so that the cause of the problem can be deduced, ‘elt is 3 wise practice to adjust suspension settings 10 suit the rider’s strong points, If you are fast through the corners, adjust the suspension to allow fast cornering, ‘®Make setting changes in small increments.a little bit goes a long way, and it is very easy to overadjust a setting ©The front and rear suspension should be balanced; when one is changed, the other might need to be changed similarly 90 ‘eWhen evaluating suspension performance the rider must ‘make every effort to ride consistently and recognize the effects of his input; such things as changes in rider position and increasing fatigue may lead to incorrect judgments about necessary setting adjust: ‘eWhen the proper settings have been determined for a particular track, they should be written down for reference when returning to that track ‘Lubricate the bearings in the swing arm and uni-trak linkage after break-in and after every 6 races to prevent ‘excess friction from affecting suspension performance. Front Fork Front Fork Oil Level ‘The fork oil level in the fork tube is adjustable. A change in the fork oil level will not affect the spring force much at the top of fork travel, but it will have a ‘reat effect at the bottom. ‘eWhen the oil level is raised: ‘The air spring effect becomes more progressive, and the front fork action feels “harder” in the later stage of travel, near the bottom, ‘eWhen the oil level is lowered: The air spring is less progressive, and the front fork does not become as “hard in the later stage of travel.‘Suspension Tuning | increase F Love i Fl seat ~ Level > Decrease 7 Level Changing the fork oil level works effectively at the tend of fork travel. If fork bottoming is experienced, raise fork oil level in 10 mm (0.4 in) increments. This will change the secondary spring rate, Oil Level Adjustment ‘Adjust the front fork oil level (see the Oil Level Ad: justment of the Front Fork section in the Maintenance and adjustment chapter), 1‘Troubleshooting Improper Settings: Listed below are some symptoms of improper sus: pension settings and the most likely means of correcting them. The proper settings can be achieved by applying the information in this chapter in a scientific, method: ical manner; this does not mean, however, that you must bbe a scientist or trained technician to succeed. Simply take time to think about the changes you believe are necessary, check them against the symptoms and cures described’ here, make the changes in small increments, and take notes on the changes and their effects. Symptoms of the Front Forks Too hard 1. The front forks are too stiff sss++ rebound or compression damping ac: justment incorrect. the springs are too strong, 100 much oil 100 heavy oil. 2. The tront forks stiffens up the end of stroke sss the fork oil level is too high, 3. The front forks operate but ride is too hard oil too heavy worn out fork oil Too soft The front forks dive excessively during braking and deceleration. Fork oil level is tow, . Springs are too soft Oil to0 ight - Fork oll is worn out Rebound or compression damping adjustment in: correct, 92 Symptoms of the Rear Shock Too hard 1. The suspension is too stiff compression damping is too high spring is too hard. 2, The suspension operates but ride is too hard Uunbalance between the spring and rebound damping {rebound damping is too low), 3. Spring preload is too hard. Too soft On landing after a big jump, bottoming occurs (Normally OK) spring preload is too soft or compression damping is too soft. spring is to0 soft shock oll is worn Determining the Proper Settings Standard Settings From the factory, the machine is set up for an intermediate-weight rider possessing intermediate riding ability. Hence, if the actual rider weight considerably more or less than this, or if his riding experience and ability are much greater or lesser than the intermediate level, it is likely that some rough adjustment can be ‘made to put the suspension “in the ballpark.” Readjustment of the Suspension Ground surface Smooth Rough Softer spring Harder springRiding experience Softer spring with more rebound damping Harder spring Beginner Rider's weight Heavy Harder spring Light Softer spring Type of course Lower the front end slightly, Lnerease the fork tube height 5 mm (0.2 in)). This quickes steering and turning ability Raise the front end slightly. [Decrease the front tube height 5 mm (0.2 in)] This slows steering gives greater stability at high speed Raise the front end slightly to Many corners Fast course with many jumps Deep whoops, or sandy ground | gain stability After making such preliminary adjustments, begia the factual on-track testing and evaluation. Remember 1. Always make changes in small increments. 2. Make sure the rider is consistent in his evaluation of {improper suspension performance 3. A change in the front suspension might require a ‘change in the rear, and vise versa, Front and Rear Compatibility Use this procedure to determine if the suspension is balanced reasonably well: Hold the bike upright (retract the side stand). While standing next to the machine, lightly pull on the front brake, place one foot on the footpeg closest to you, and push down hard. If the bike maintains its level attitude as the suspension is com pressed, the spring rates are well balanced. Sit astride the bike and take a riding posture. Next check to see that the bike is in a horizontal position. If one end ‘drops noticeably more than the other, the front and rear are not compatible and must be readjusted to achieve @ better balance.This is one of the most effective adjustment proce: dures but suspension settings will vary depending on the Conditions at the track and the rider's preferences, Front end searching during down hill or during acceler tion out of corner: Front fork is soft. Step 1 — Increase the compression damping or re bound damping. Step 2 — Inerease the oil level 10 mm (0.4 in. Step 3 — Use alternate harder spring, or increase spring preload, Front end “knifes” or oversteers in turns: (Front end tends to turn inws Front fork is too soft. Step 1 — Increase the compression damping or re: bound damping Step 2 — Increase the cil level 10 mm (0.4 in). NOTE ‘oHeavier or expert riders may need the heavy spring. Front end pushes or “washes out” in tums: (When 2 front wheel tends to push outward rather than “bite” in a turn) Front Fork is too stiff Step 1 Decrease the compression damping or rebound damping. Step 2 — Reloase the air at the fork tubes. Step 3 ~ Decrease oil level 10 ~ 20 mm (0.4 -0.8 in), Step 4 — Ute softer spring. NOTE ©A softer spring may be required for lighter or less experienced riders. Front fork doesn’t respond to small bumps in sweeping turns: Front Fork is too hard. Step 1 ~ Decrease the compression damping or re bound damping. Step 2 — Decrease oil level 10 mm (0.4 in). OStep 3 ~ Use softer duty spring. Rear end “kicks” when braking over bumps: ‘The shock probably has too little rebound damping . . Inerease the rebound damping, Rear tire won't “hook up" out of corners: (A lack of traction coming out of turns) The shock may be too stiff ‘Step 1 — Decrease the rear shock spring preload, Step 2 — Decrease the compression damping. Step 3 — Use softer spring (In case of a lightweight rider.)Brake lands on the front wheel off hioh speed jumps: (This may be due to improper riding posture) Rebound damping is too soft or spring is to hard. Step 1 — Increase rebound damping. Step 2 — Decrease the shock spring preload. Step 3 — Decrease the compression damping. Front and rear of the bike bottom off high-speed jumps: (if harsh bottoming occurs once or twice per lap of the race) Front and rear suspension system are too sot. Step 1 — F/F: Increase oil level 10 mm (0.4 in). R/S: Increase spring preload. Use harder spring. Step 2 — F/F: Use harder spring, R/S: Increase compression damping or use harder spring. NOTE After any adjustment, check front and rear compat- ibility. Adjustment depending on bottoming condition (Rear shock) Bottom at low speed Olncrease spring preload until maximum preload is achieved, ‘Bottom after successive 3 or 4 jumps Decrease rebound damping NOTE OThe rear shock on this machine may mislead some riders. 8, The rear shock bottoms when the spring and damping fe overcome by the total weight of the machine and rider (due to full stroke). '. A bottoming sensation (even through the machine ‘not bottoming) may actually be the inability of rider and machine weight to overcome an overly stiff spring or excessive damping, Observe the rear end off jumps; if it doesn’t approach bottoming, try lowering the spring preload and damping. 95Gearing Selection of the secondary reduction ratio (Sprocket) Preconditions Course condition ear Sprocket Fast course ‘Small jany curves or hills Sandy or soft ground Large ‘if the straight portion of a course is longer, the second: ary reduction ratio should be reduced so that the machine speed can be increased. ‘eWhen the course has many corners or uphills or is wet, the secondary reduction ratio should be increased 50 that gear shifting is possible with smooth acceleration, ‘*Actually, the speed must be changed depending on the ‘ground condition on the day of race and therefore, be sure to run through the racing circuit prior 10 a race and set the machine suitable for the entire course. ‘IF the straight portion of a course on which the me: chine can be run at maximum speed is longer, the machine should be so set that the maximum machine speed can be developed toward the end of the straight course, but care should be taken not to over-rev the engine. ‘8lt is difficult to set the machine sa itis best suited for all portions of the circuit. Therefore, determine which circuit portions will have the greatest effect on lap. time. Set the machine for these portions, Confirm your settings by recording lap times after each change. In this way the machine will deliver best performance for the entire circuit 96 ‘Special Care According to Track Conditions 1. In dry, dusty conditions (such as volcanic ash or fine Powdery dust) special care must be given to keeping the air cleaner element clean. 2. When riding on wet heavy clay the mud adheres 10 the tires and other parts of the vehicle, The mud cen add significantly to the weight of the vehicle and therefore reduce performance. Take care to remove builtup mud from the tires and chassis after each ride, before drying occurs 3. The engine works hardest in muddy conditions and the radiator can become clogged with mud. Take ‘are not to overheat the engine in these conditions. The engine also works very hard when ridden in deep sand, 4. In muddy or sandy conditions adjust the chain looser than in other conditions a¢ the chain and sprockets will pack with mud/sand and reduce chain slack 5. Check chain and sprocket wear frequently when riding in mud or sand since wear is increased in these conditions, 6. In dusty conditions as the air cleaner collects dust, the engine runs richer. Therefore it may be advisable to run slightly leaner jetting (main jet) in very dusty conditions.‘aman OPTIONAL PARTS. Carburetor Jetting Parts Kx 125; KX250: _KX5O0. 49T (Wet condition use) ‘SOT (Wet condition use) Main Jet 155 158 162 158 160 165 162 165 170 165 18172 180 192188 Slow Jet 48 45 55 50. 48 58 55 52 62 58 55 65 Jet Needle (Leaner): NIAJ Nozo N82P NIAK NozE 2820 NIAM NozG N82S NIAN NozH NB2T NBs NED 89D NiBK NIEE NEE NBL NIEF NgOF Niem NIEG Naga (Richer): N1BN NIEH _N@gH Engine Sprocket X125:; __KX250, 500 13T 1st nT 137 Rear Sprocket ‘Aluminum: 47T sor 4st 517 Steet 48T (Wet condition use) Front: Rear ‘Suspension Spring (ka/mm) ® + European model @ : Other model ‘Seat | Low: H= 135 mm Middle: = 150 mm (standard) High: H= 165mm — _| Dise Plate Front No Hole (wet condition use) Fear: Wheel (except tire) Front Wheel Assembly : 1.60-21 Rear Whee! Assembly : (KX125) 1.8519 K=0.335 (KX125 option) K=0.35 (KX125 standard) K=0.365 (KX125 option) K=0.38 (KX250, KX500 option) K=0.39 (KX250, KX500 standard) K=0.40 IKX250, KX500 option) K=4.3 (KX125 option) 4.5 (KX125 standard, KX250 option} 7 (KX250 standard, KX125 option) -9(KX250 option) =5.0 {KX600 @option) K=5.2 (KX500 @standard, @option) K=5.4 (KX500 @standard, @option) K=5.6 [KX500 ®option) K kK K kK No Hole (wet condition use) (16250, $00) 2.15-19 7(1)Proparation check - Engine sprocket instal |. Shift pedal bolt tightness Front axle shaft and nut, or axle clamp nut tight: ness Front fork clamp bolt tightness Handlebar clamp bolt tightness Throttle grip screw tightness Throttle grip operation Front and rear brake hose installation Front and rear brake fluid level Front and rear brake dise and caliper installation Front and rear brake function Fuel tank installation |. All control cable routing Engine mounting bolt tightness tion ‘Transmission oil level 1. Carburetor clamp sorew tightness Carburetor top cap tightness |. Unitrak tie rod mounting bolt tightness |. Unitrak rocker arm mounting bolt tightness |. Rear shock absorber bolt tightness ‘Swing arm pivot shaft nut tightness Rear axle shaft nut tightness 3. Rear sprocket bolts oF nuts tightness |. Rear brake pedal operation Seat installation Front and rear wheel spoke tightness Front and rear tire ar pressure Drive chain slack Coolant levet RACE PREPARATION “11 (2)After first heat maintenance 1. Air cleaner element — clean 2. Drive chain slack — adjust 3. Rear sprocket nuts ~ tighten 4. Spokes — tighten 5. Front and rear tie air pressure — check 6. Front and rear axle shaft nuts — tighten 7. Pivot shaft nut ~ tighten 8. Muffler, silencer bolts or nuts — tighten 9. Front, rear fender mounting bolts or nuts — tighten 10. Fuel tank, seat mounting bolts or nuts — tighten 11, Front and rear brakes — check function 12. Steering play — check 13, Fuel tank — fill with fuel 14. Coolant level — check (3)Maintenance notice for after riding on dusty course If dirt or dust gets through into the engine, the crankshaft big end will wear excessively. After riding, inspect the crankshaft big end. If the crankshaft big end, is worn past the service limit, replace the crankshaft with(4)Maintenance notice for after riding in rain oF on ‘muddy course 1. Apply grease to swing arm pivot and rear suspension system . Inspect the drive chain and rear sprocket wear Clean the air cleaner element ‘Check the cylinder and crankshatt big end be Grease the throttle grip and control cables. (5)Suggested spare parts Spare wheels (front and rear) ‘Shift pedal and brake pedal Brake lever, clutch lever, and holders OThroitle and clutch cables Handlebar oF ront and rear fenders, side covers, and number plate Radistor, radiator cover, and hoses Throttle grip assembly ‘ders (carburetor) Air cleaner element Muffler, silencer, and installation parts Chain ease Fork springs (for different settings) Rear shock absorber spring (for different settings) Assorted gearing, mounting bolts and nuts, and circlips Electrical parts set ‘Spark plugs ‘Clute assembly or friction plates Gasket set Assorted tires (various compounds and tread patterns for different conditions) Front fork assembly Piston and piston rings wraps, bolts, nuts, O-rings, washers, snap rings, wire, adhesive tape, vinyl tape (or duct tape), and #400 to #600 emery cloth 99When the motoreycle is to be stored for any length of time, it should be prepared for storage as follows: ‘Clean the entire vehicle thoroughly. ‘Run the engine for about five minutes to warm the oil, shut it off and drain the transmission oil, ‘Put in fresh transmission oj ‘Empty the fuel from the fuel tank, and empty the carburetor float bowl. (If left in for a long time, the fuel will deteriorate.) AWARNING extremely flammable and can be explosive! conditions, Always stop the engine and| ldo not smoke. Make sure the area is well ventilated land free from any source of flame or sparks; this includes any appliance with a pilot light. ‘@Remove the spark plug and put several drops of SAE 30 oil into the cylinder. Kick the engine over slowly a few times to coat the cylinder wall with oil, and install the plug. ‘Lubricate the drive chain and all the cables. Spray oil on all unpainted metal surfaces to. prevent rusting. Avoid getting oil on rubber parts or in the brakes. 100 STORAGE rm ‘*Set the motorcycle on a box or stand so that both wheels are raised off the ground. (if this cannot be done, put boards under the front and rear wheels to keep dampness away from the tire rubber.) Tie a plastic bag over the exhaust pipe to prevent moisture from entering. ‘Put 2 cover over the motorcycle to keep dust and dirt from collecting on it ‘To put the motorcycle back into use after storage. ‘© emove plastic bag from exhaust. ‘@Make sure the spark plug is tight. ‘Fill the fuel tank with fuel. ‘Check all the points listed in the Daily Prestide Inspec: tion Section, ‘Perform the General lubrication procedure.» WIRING DIAGRAM « 1. Spark Plug 2. Ignition Coit 3. Igniter 4, Pickup Coil 5. Excitor Coil 6 Magneto 7. Engine Stop Color Gade BK Block aR | sie | i [a [ow Y Button aw & po » —J we Do WR wa 2k —D-a— sn —| ——po-—n 2/4 sew —| 101Kxs00: - Spark Plug Ignition Coil Igniter |. Engine Stop Button Magneto Pickup Coit Exeitor Coil Nogsens 102 WA —>o-—wa — oy. KY: 2k /K OK —B/#— 2«/K$o— Bem ce No-»KX125-J2 KX250-J2 KX500-E5 KAWASAKI Pirate aol aT